Pulling a Water Skier: Part One

Boats are certainly fun to drive and it’s enjoyable to spend a day anchored in the middle of a serene lake, but one of the main reasons most people invest in a boat is water sports. And while towing an innertube is a cinch, getting a skier up—especially a novice—can be difficult. The boat driver has a crucial impact on the enjoyment and the safety of the skier, so before you put someone behind your boat, be sure you know what you’re doing.

When the skier is in the water, have the engine cut and someone else on board displaying your safety flag, which should always be kept with your extra gasoline and Evinrude XD 100. Once the skier has the handles of the towrope and is comfortable in the water, clear the rope from the propeller and start the engine. Slowly move away from the boater until all of the slack has been removed from the towrope. Tomorrow we’ll go over how to get them up.

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Essential Boating Supplies

When you neglect to bring extra gas and supplies with you on a road trip, the consequences are minimal—perhaps you’ll have to phone in for a tow truck or get a ride to the closest town. But when you forget to pack the proper supplies on a boat outing it can sometimes be difficult to garner immediate assistance. To avoid incident on the water, here are a few essential supplies to always keep on hand:

~First aid kit

~Emergency Radio

~Extra food and water

~Gasoline and outboard motor oil

~A set of tools

~Extra parts, such as prop fins and fasteners

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What is TC-W3 Certification?

Yesterday I suggested using TC-W3 certified oil, and you may be asking yourself what sets these oils apart. All outboard motor oils have certain specifications which you can use to gauge their effectiveness i.e. lubricity, viscosity and fluidity. And for most people, comparing the flash points of different oils isn’t too appealing, so it’s nice if you can someone else provide the comparative analysis for you. 

Each of the outboard motor oils inspected by the NMMA goes through independent testing to determine how it holds up in a range of conditions. After testing the oils on several engines from varying manufacturers, the NMMA takes the data and sees if the oil meets the minimum requirements for certification. As I said yesterday, TC-W3 is the gold standard in the industry; the only real difference between certified oils, such as Evinrude XD100 oil and Yamalube, is the additives the manufacturer uses.

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How to Choose Your Outboard Motor Oil

If you only take your boat out once in a blue moon, you probably don’t care too much about which types of motor oil you choose—and you probably wouldn’t have stumbled upon this blog post either. Avid boaters know the importance of choosing top tier outboard motor oil. But with literally dozens of choices on store shelves, how do you know which one is right for you?

The most important thing to look for is , which ensures the oil meets a set of rigorous standards set forth by the NMAA. Most manufacturers offer at least one oil that meets TC-W3 standards; the main difference across brands is the additives. Personally, I like to follow the logic that the manufacturer knows their engine best, so they should also be able to create the best oil for it. When it boils down to it though, as long as your oil is TC-W3 certified, you’re in the clear.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part Three

Yesterday we covered how to launch your boat at the dock, so today it’s time for the other half of the equation: getting your vessel back on the trailer. Although the two tasks are similar, many people get into trouble during this part. The easiest method is to use two people.

Start by dropping someone off at the dock to go get the vehicle; I recommend leaving the most experienced boater at the helm. Once you drop the person off, cruise around the no wake zone until they return with the car and trailer. After they’ve backed the trailer into the water, approach it head-on with the boat. Here is where most people go wrong; they cut the engine too soon, meaning the boat has to be guided by hand onto the trailer. Instead, coast in slowly and cut the engine after you have some momentum built up. Have the driver waiting at the trailer to quickly secure the boat. Before you leave the ramp, make sure your skis, flags, Yamaha 2W oil and other supplies are tied down and secure.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part Two

The first time you back your boat into the water it can certainly be daunting; I mean, it’s not everyday your supposed to back your vehicle towards a body of water. When you’re launching your boat, your trailer will obviously have to be submerged in the water. For some reason—unbeknownst to me—various trailer lights aren’t waterproof, which can lead to short-circuiting when they get wet. As such, always opt for the waterproof option.

If it’s your first time launching your boat (and even if you’ve done it hundreds of times), it’s a good idea to have someone get out and help guide you into the water. It doesn’t matter if the tires of the trailer get in the water, but you’ll want to avoid submerging the wheel hubs, which can lead to rust and corrosion. Once the boat can float, undo all of the ties and cables attaching it to the trailer and secure it to the dock. That probably seemed easy, so tomorrow we’ll go over the more difficult task: getting the boat back on the trailer.  Make sure you have all your essentials in the boat, life jackets, drinking water, cell phone and extra outboard motor oil.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part One

Having a permanent docking location for your vessel is an enormous convenience, but most recreational boaters aren’t fortunate enough to have a spot in the water for their boat. Instead, we are forced to launch our boat every time we want to use it and allocate storage space for the watercraft and trailer on dry land. And while it may be wearisome to constantly have to pull your boat in and out of the water, trailiering your vessel does have its distinct advantages.

First, you don’t have to worry about other boaters’ negligence when docking, mooring or transporting supplies around the dock. Constant exposure to the water and the elements can corrode the exterior of your boat and the metal components, as well as the paint on the hull. When your boat is on the trailer, it’s also easier to change the Evinrude XD 100 and perform other routine maintenance. Over the next few days we’ll cover some of the basic procedures for launching and , including some tips to preserve your craft while it’s in storage.

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How to Change Outboard Motor Oil

While the two-stroke engine has fallen out of favor, it does boast one distinct advantage over its four-stroke successor: you don’t have to change the outboard motor oil. Sure, you have to mix the oil with gasoline consistently, but changing your oil can be a hassle. And if you neglect to do it, you can cause serious damage to your engine. You don’t have to worry if you have a four-stroke, however; changing your outboard motor oil is simple:

~Take the boat out of the water and put it on a trailer
~Remove the engine cover
~Check the oil using the dipstick in the crankcase
~Use the trim button to raise the motor, allowing the oil to drain out from the crankcase easily
~Drain the oil into an empty container. Take out the drain plug to allow all the oil to draw off.
~Replace the drain plug and refill the oil until it reaches the full level

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Three

If you have adequate water flow into the strainer and can’t find any obstruction, chances are the problem is something more serious. Unfasten the clamps and remove the hose going into the water pump. Look in the seacock to ensure proper water flow: if water isn’t flowing, it’s an indication that you have a clog somewhere in the hose; if not, you’ll have to dig deeper.

Remove the face from the water pump and inspect the impeller; the fins should be pliable and not show any signs of wear. In addition to extra fuel and Evinrude XD50 oil, you should carry a spare set of fins with you in just in case this scenario occurs. If your fins are in good shape, all signs point to a broken water pump. This is obviously the worst-case scenario, but all is not lost. To get back to shore, remove one of the other electric pumps from the system and use it to connect the raw water intake to the cooling system, effectively circumventing the intake pump.

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Two

If you see the temperature gauge rising, immediately turn the engine off and put up your warning flag for other boaters. Allow your boat to float freely for a few minutes; this will allow the engine to cool and let any debris that may be clogging the system to break free. While the engine is cooling down, open the hatch to the engine room, close the through-hull valve and inspect the strainer. If the strainer is clean, take a look in the through-hull valve to check for water flow into the strainer.

If you have no water flow your intake is clogged, which actually means you are in luck. Simply rid the obstruction from the system, put the strainer back in and you’re good to go. Of course, you will want to monitor the temperature gauge closely for the rest of the day. When you get back to the dock, thoroughly examine the engine to look for any extensive damage; I also recommend putting in some new Evinrude XD100 oil. Tomorrow will go over what to do if your engine problem is more than a simple clog.

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part One

Even if you perform routine maintenance and change your outboard motor oil piously, things will go wrong when you are on the water. And when they do, it’s crucial that you know what course of action to take. If you boat with any regularity, you will inevitably have to deal with an overheating engine at some point.

One of the most common causes of overheating engines is a clogged intake. Garbage and debris is becoming an increasing danger to engines, especially if you are boating close to the shoreline, but simple seaweeds and underwater foliage can be hazardous as well. If you check the intake and it’s clean, you may have a more serious problem on your hands. Tomorrow we’ll go over a detailed contingency plan for the exact modus operandi in the event of an overheating engine.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Five

After you’ve inspected the fuel line, move on to the fuel primer bulb and fuel line fittings. Lastly, check the tank vent to ensure the unit is aspirating properly and there isn’t any water in the fuel. Turn off the engine and the battery, and open the engine cover to check for any leaking fuel or water.

Lubricate all of the moving parts—the carburetor valves, shift and throttle cables, etc. Assuming you have a two-stroke engine, you’re going to need to mix the fuel with outboard motor oil before you refill the tank. Always be sure to use premium certified oil, such as Evinrude XD 100 oil. Once you’re finished, throw the cover on the engine to keep it safe during storage and transportation.

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