Winterizing Your ATV: Part Three

Before exposing your ATV to the perils of winter weather, it’s necessary to take a few steps to ensure the machine operates properly. We’ll go over the basic procedures for all vehicles, but the exact process will vary depending on the make and model of your vehicle. To that end, it’s always advisable to consult your owner’s manual to ensure there aren’t any discrepancies.

The first thing to do is to install a carburetor heater. This will ensure that the mixture of gas, air and 2 stroke oil is always at an adequate temperature when it’s in the system. When you know the weather is going to be extremely cold, it’s crucial to switch to premium synthetic oil that is rated for the conditions. While you can get by with subpar oil in ideal conditions, it’s necessary to invest the extra money when the weather is bad.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part Two

If you took the time to change your Evinrude XD 100 and perform other basic maintenance before putting your ATV in storage, getting your vehicle operational once again should be a cinch. All of the fuel should have been burned out of the engine, so the first line of business is to fill up the tank again and be sure that the oil levels are adequate. Reconnect the battery and ensure that any coverings on the muffler or other openings have been removed.

Even though you probably checked all of the fittings and hardware prior to storage, you can never be too careful. Give the ATV a quick inspection and ensure that all of the moving parts are well lubricated. This is also a good time to examine the fuel line, wheels, steering system and the suspension.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part One

Now that we’ve got the boat stowed away for the winter and have dealt with all of the necessary fuel and outboard motor oil chores, it’s time to start thinking about getting your winter vehicles out of storage. My family has an assortment of vehicles for soggy, cold conditions, but my favorite has to be our fleet of ATVs. Of course, you can’t simply take these vehicles out of storage and begin tackling the terrain immediately.

Just as you have to winterize a boat for storage, you also need to go through a winterization process before exposing ATVs to frigid climates. Over the next few days, we’ll be covering some of the basics of this winterization process to ensure your engine doesn’t seize up. We’ll also touch on some of the basic maintenance procedures that should be performed regularly, especially when starting up your machine for the first time since it’s been in storage.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Five

Now that all of the major winterization is out of the way—such as changing the Evinrude XD 100, draining the fuel and lubricating the various systems—it’s time to tie up some of the loose ends. Detach all of the battery cables and remove the battery from the boat. You’ll want to store the battery in a cool, dry place—probably the same location as the vessel itself. Clean and dry the bilges using soap and hot water. Once this is done, apply some lubricant.

The final step is to clean both the interior and the hull of the vessel thoroughly. Cleaning the interior is fairly self-explanatory, but for the hull you’ll want to use a pressure washer to breakthrough all of the caked on deposits and grime. This winterization process probably seems extensive, and it is to a certain extent. However, when next boating season rolls around you’ll be glad you put in the extra effort.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Four

In an early post in this series I said to drain all of the fuel from the tank. This is a necessary procedure, but there are two schools of thought when it comes to what to do after this process. Some manufacturers say to disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until all of the fuel is gone and leave the boat in that condition for storage. Others say to refill the tank with fuel and add a fuel treatment product to prevent condensation from building in the tank.

If you take the latter route, you will obviously want to make sure you add the proper ratio of outboard motor oil as well. The best way to determine which method to employ is simply to consult your owner’s manual. During the process of preparing the fuel tank, however, you will always want to change the fuel filters and the water separators.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Three

After you’ve flushed the system, use a pickup hose to pump some antifreeze through the manifold. This will require you to gain access to the engine room, and while you’re there you’ll want to change the transmission fluid as well. Take out each of the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil into each cylinder. Finally, wipe down the entire engine with some fogging oil, WD-40 or other lubricant.

Stern drives have a tendency to pick up barnacles and aquatic flora during the season, so you’ll want to remove any of these growths from the lower unit. Drain all of the fluid from the gear case and be sure there isn’t any excess moisture in the two cycle oil, which is an indication that your seals are leaking. Thoroughly clean the lower unit with soap and water, apply grease to the system and check all of the necessary fuel levels.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Two

The first step when preparing your boat for the frigid winter months is to find a suitable storage area. While leaving your boat in the water is an option, it isn’t advisable; the water will cause unnecessary wear and corrosion to the prop and the hull. The ideal location is in a covered, climate-controlled area. If you have extra space in your garage, you’re in luck; otherwise, you’ll want to invest in a storage space.

As with all maintenance, each manufacturer has their own specifications, so you’ll want to consult your owner’s manual to make sure you abide by their guidelines. For outboard engine owners, you’ll want to run the engine to warm it up and then change the Evinrude XD100 oil prior to putting the vessel in storage. This is also a good time to change the oil filters and flush the system with water. Whether you have a two- or a four-stroke, you’ll want to get rid of all of the excess fuel prior to storage, as it will go bad if it just sits in the tank for months.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part One

Now that the summer boating season is winding down, it’s time to start thinking about putting your boat in storage for the fall and winter. You may assume that you can simply throw your boat on the trailer, put the cover on and let it sit for months on end. This may work for a season or two, but eventually this sort of neglect will begin to cause damage to your vessel.

It’s critical to take some time at the end of each season to make sure your boat is stowed properly. Not only will this improve its longevity, it will also make your job easier when it comes time to get it water-ready next spring. Over the next few days will go over the proper protocol for handling the cleaning, outboard motor oil removal and other crucial components of boat winterization.

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Boat Ownership: Part Five

Once you’ve made the decision to purchase a boat, you obviously want to protect your investment. We all recognize that the water and other elements provide a constant threat to our boat, which is why we invest in bumpers, covers and other protective gear. But what about boat theft?

It’s not the end of the world if someone swipes the Evinrude XD 100 out of the boat or grabs a stray life jacket, but full-blown boat theft is becoming increasingly common. Boats look like easy targets for criminals, especially when they’re just sitting there on a trailer. The easiest way to prevent theft is by locking your trailer at all times and keeping the keys on your person when you are moored at the dock. Also be sure to clearly label your boat, trailer and all of the removable equipment with your HIN and driver’s license number.

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Boat Ownership: Part Four

Every boat—at least the ones manufactured after 1972—comes with a distinct Hull Identification Number (HIN) which is etched onto the transom. The HIN, which is a series of 12 letters and numbers, gives your boat a unique identity that can be used in the event of theft or a manufacturer recall. Many states require a registration number, which is not the same the State Registration number.

The HIN format changed in 1984, so we’ll cover the most up-to-date criteria. The first three characters specify the manufacturer; the next five are the hull serial number; followed by the date of certification; and the final two numbers are the model year. It’s important to keep your HIN in a safe location so you have it in the event of an emergency. You should always have emergency products and information like life jackets and extra outboard motor oil.

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Boat Ownership: Part Three

As I mentioned to other day, you initial investment in your vessel is just that—the initial investment. Just like with a car, you will continually be sinking money into your boat. You may have the budget for a down payment and finance charges, but do you have the means for everything else? And will it really be worth it? Here is a quick rundown of some of the basic costs you’ll have to deal with:

~Finance Payments
~Registration (for boat and trailer) and licensing
~Insurance
~Dock Fees
~Gas and Yamalube oil
~Dock Fees
~Taxes
~Storage
~Routine Maintenance

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Boat Ownership: Part Two

When most people begin to contemplate purchasing a watercraft, they have a particular use in mind. Perhaps it’s pulling waterskiers, wakeboarders or innertubers. Or you might simply want a place to sit out in the middle of the lake casting your fishing line. Maybe you want the best of both worlds. It’s important to hash out how you plan to use your boat, as this will dictate the type of craft you need.

If you are only going to be trolling around a small body of water, a modest craft with a is all you need. Of course, the larger your vessel the more it’ll cost and the harder it will be to maintain it; you’ll have to pay more for fuel, Evinrude XD100 oil and even to keep it in storage. This is why I suggest getting the smallest vessel that will still do everything you need it to.

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