Boat Engine Maintenance and Troubleshooting: Part One

Whether you take your boat out everyday or just on the occasional three-day weekend, all watercrafts require a substantial commitment of time and money. Since any boat is going to be a sizeable investment, it makes sense to put in the effort to keep your boat in peak condition. Of course, you will want to change the outboard motor oil regularly and keep the hull clean, but this is only the tip of the iceberg. Over the next several days, we will be going over a variety of engine maintenance procedures to help your ensure that your boat stays afloat and you make the most of your time on the open water.

Obviously, boats are constantly exposed to water, and this is one of the main culprits when it comes to engine damage. The risks associated with water are two-fold. First, water is a solvent, which means that it will dissolve many materials and facilitates corrosion. Water also naturally harbors growth, which is a serious concern for the wood, plastic and metal that is constantly in contact with the water. Now that we know what the enemy is, tomorrow we will formulate the plan of attack.

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Fishing Season is Underway

The start of fishing season is one of my favorite times of year; not only do I get to spend my weekends out on the lake, but it also is when I take the cover off my Bayliner and prepare for boating season. A couple of weeks before the fishing season begins, I take my boat out of storage so that I have an opportunity to go through my preseason maintenance schedule. Nothing is worse than getting to the middle of the lake only to find out that your Evinrude xd 100 oil has run out and there is a crack in the fuel line.

Since all of my maintenance was done ahead of time, I was out on the lake at six in the morning the day the season started. The early bird gets the worm scenario didn’t pan out for my son and me, as we didn’t catch anything all day. This trend continued last week, so I’ve been looking into some new spots for us to test out weekend.

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TC-W3 Certification: How the Oil is Tested

Three different engines are used by the NMMA to test the oils and determine if they meet TC-W3 certification standards. First, the outboard motor oil is tested on a BRP 40 hp engine and a Johnson 70 hp. They also run two consecutive tests using a Mercury 15 hp motor and two separate lubricity tests. This variety of testing ensures that the oil’s performance is uniform in all two-stroke engines. 

During the tests, the engines run for 100 hours each. Every ten hours during the test, the testers stop the engines and the oil is inspected. The testing process remains constant regardless of the manufacturer and chemical makeup of the oil. Many boat manufacturers specify TC-W3 certified oils for their engines, so receiving TC-W3 certification can be a boon for an oil manufacturer.

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TC-W3 Certification: The Testing

The National Marin Manufacturers Association (NMMA) is the organization holding the trademark for TC-W3 and is responsible for all of the analysis. Each 2 cycle oil is put through a rigorous series of tests to ensure that it meets the highest lubrication standards under a range of conditions. A bench test is a trial conducted in a laboratory prior to a product being made available to the public.

To receive TC-W3 certification, every two-cycle oil must pass several bench tests, which include checks for viscosity, lubricity and fluidity, among others. Ring sticking and carbon buildup on the pistons are both checked for as well. Tomorrow we will look at the various engines that are used to test the oils and take a closer look at what it takes for an oil to be approved.

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TC-W3 Certification

Virtually all marine engines are two-stroke, which necessitates a particular type of motor oil. In a two-stroke engine, the fuel and oil are mixed so that the system is lubricated as it is supplied with gas. There are myriad reasons why two-strokes are superior for use on the water, but they also have their drawbacks. Because the oil is mixed with the fuel, two-stroke engines tend to emit an excess of burnt oil.

For manufacturers, the goal is to produce oil that can be used in a smaller proportion to the amount of fuel, such as Evinrude xd100. This will help eliminate much of the emissions that are created by excess oil in the system. Of course, this reduction in the oil to fuel ration can’t come at the expense of lubrication and performance. In order to develop criteria so that owners can recognize premium oils that meet all of this criteria, the NMMA developed TC-W3 certification, which we will be examining the rest of the week.

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Oil Spill Fuels Energy Debate

Most outboard motor oil today is synthetic, so drilling really has no direct impact on production or market value. However, since the catalyst of this blog is oil, the massive spill in the Gulf of Mexico bears mentioning. Of course, the oil spill will have massive ramifications for the wildlife and ecosystems in the region, but it will also provide a new talking point in the ongoing debate on offshore drilling and alternative

For the last several years, the mantra of the Republican Party has been, drill baby, drill. President Obama has even taken steps to appease the GOP faithful by including offshore drilling in his new energy proposal. In the wake of the current disaster however, it will be difficult to find continued bipartisan support for any legislation that promotes the proliferation of drilling. Although there hasn’t been a major offshore drilling fiasco in 40 years, the current crisis in the Gulf is sure to raise concerns about drilling safety and viability.

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Offseason Snowmobile Care: Part Five

In the final installment of our series on storing your sled, we’ll look at some final measures to take before relegating your vehicle to a safe corner for its summer hibernation. Some models will have a secondary clutch, and if this is the case, you will need to disassemble it and apply grease to the sheave bushing. Lastly, every metal surface, nut and bolt should be coated with a preserving oil to prevent rusting be sure to keep the oil away from plastic and rubber components.

When determining a location to store the snowmobile, look for a dry place that is free of moisture. Place a cover over the body of the sled and put blocks underneath the front bumper and the rear frame, which will keep the track and skis off the floor. Refrain from starting the engine until the next season, as this will extricate the oil from the system. Before you startup you snowmobile next season, be sure that you double-check your Evinrude XD 100 and other essential fluid levels.

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Offseason Snowmobile Care: Part Four

When your sled is left idle for a prolonged period of time, the fluid levels and charge in the battery to diminish. Before storing your sled for the spring and summer, remove the battery and put it in a safe, dark area悠 recommend putting it where you keep your outboard motor oil and other supplies. Throughout the offseason, charge the battery periodically and fill it with distilled water if the fluid level drops below the fill line.

Fill the carb intake, muffler, and cooling system openings to prevent small animals from crawling into and nesting in your sled. It is also important to loosen the track tension bolts as far as they will go. If the track is kept taut during the offseason stretching and cracking may occur. Tomorrow we will go over the last preparations and finish our series on snowmobile storage.

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Offseason Snowmobile Care: Part Three

Yesterday we lubricated the entire system with Evinrude oil and prepared the fuel tank so that it won’t rust during the offseason; now its time progress to the carburetor and the drive belt. Begin by removing the float bowl drains from the carburetor, which will allow the fuel to escape. If fuel is left in the carburetor during the offseason, it will evaporate and leave a residue, which has the potential to clog passageways in your system.

Once the fuel is drained from the carburetor, remove the drive belt and store it unrolled in a safe location. Leaving the belt on during the offseason can cause it to warp to the shape of your sled. There is also the possibility of condensation collecting in-between the clutch sheaves and the belt, which will be detrimental to the smoothness of your ride. Tomorrow we will discuss proper storage of the battery and go over a few minor adjustments to ensure the integrity of your snowmobile isn’t jeopardized.

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Offseason Snowmobile Care: Part Two

Once the outside of the sled has been taken care of, it’s time to move to the more pressing concern: the engine. Begin by firing up your snowmobile and pulling the oil pump cable; doing this will enable a rich mixture of Evinrude XD100 oil to flow throughout the engine. The piston pin, bearings and some other engine components typically see little oil, and opening the oil pump ensures that they are properly lubricated before storage.

After you have ran the engine for 10 to 15 minutes, top off your fuel and add a fuel conditioner according to the specifications. It is important to top off fuel during the offseason to ensure there is no air in the tank. When the tank has air in it, condensation can form, which can wreak havoc on your machine. Now that we have dealt with the fuel and oil, tomorrow we will progress to the carburetor and drive belt.

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Offseason Snowmobile Care: Part One

Now that spring is in full swing, most of us won’t be going anywhere near our snowmobiles for a couple of months. But just because you won’t be on the back of the machine doesn’t mean that your snowmobile is out of harm’s way. A litany of things can go wrong with your vehicle while it’s in storage—from cracked parts and scratched paint to stale gasoline and outboard motor oil. To that end, it is imperative to take the proper precautions when storing your vehicle.

The first thing to do before putting your snowmobile in storage is to clean and polish it thoroughly. If using a pressure washer, use caution around bearing seals, as water can leak in and cause components to rust. Once the machine is dry, look for cracks and other signs of wear or damage. Now that the sled is clean and the body inspected, tomorrow we will start dealing with the various parts under the hood.

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How to Change Boat Motor Oil: Part Five

Now that the old oil has been exorcized from the engine and a new oil filter is in place, the only thing left to do is pour in the fresh oil. Each manufacturer will have their own specifications and recommendations for what type of oil to use in your craft, and it is a good idea to consult your owner’s manual before making a purchase. However, it is usually a safe bet to go with a premium product like Evinrude XD 100 oil.

Even if the filler opening is easily accessible, I recommend using a funnel and, if necessary, a hose to minimize spills and keep the process clean. It may seem like a lengthy process, but the time you put into changing your oil will be well worth it. Maintaining clean oil in your system will not only protect your boat and increase its longevity, but you will also notice a palpable improvement in its performance on the water.

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