Time to Inspect for Oil Leaks?

Most outboard motor manufacturers recommend that boat owners inspect their engines once a year – if not more often – and perform some routine maintenance as needed. If your outboard has seen a lot of action this summer, take some time to ensure that it continues to operate smoothly. To begin this process, grab a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, an industrial container, pliers, a hammer, some two cycle outboard oil and your owner’s manual.

The first step is to make sure you don’t void your warranty by mistake. Scour the manual for tips on which lubricants and replacement parts to use. Next, study the motor for signs of lubricant leaks. Don’t be alarmed if you spot a bit of oil below the fill screws, but a large running stain is cause for concern. In the case of excess oil leakage, set up an appointment with an outboard mechanic. At least you caught the problem early instead of finding out about it when your engine shuts down in the middle of the lake.

Consult your manual again to see if lubricant changes are recommended for the engine’s lower unit. If so, drain the old lubricant into the industrial container and replace it with a recommended brand. Squirt some lubricant into the gear case with the applicator until the oil starts to come out of the top fill hole. Put the top plug back on and wipe away leftover lubricant with a cloth.

Did you like this? Share it:

Ethanol Issues, Continued

Yesterday we established the potential problems with the Environmental Protection Agency’s push to mandate higher ratios of ethanol in outboard fuel mixes. Most notably, a 15 percent ethanol mix would prove harmful to carburetors and especially fuel tanks in small private crafts, costing the boating industry millions in the long run. Today, let’s look at a few other potential headaches E10 and especially E15 could cause boat owners.

For obvious reasons, a motor runs best on fuel that is consistent throughout – from the first drop to the last. The same is true for all machines that require 2 stroke oil: A lumpy mixture has a tendency to gum up the works, while a smooth, consistent blend will keep a motor running strong. When ethanol dissolves components from a fuel tank, those components flow along with the fuel into the rest of the system – including the engine. These chemicals congeal into black goo.

Even worse, E10 latches onto water molecules and holds them in a gelatinous state. This means just a little water in a fuel tank presents a unique problem with ethanol blends. The lumps of ethanol and water are more dense than the rest of the fuel, causing them to sink to the bottom of the tank. Over time, this sludge will build up and lead to additional problems. It goes without saying that an E15 mixture would only compound this already serious issue.

Did you like this? Share it:

Planning Ahead for Winter Fun

August is just around the corner, and before we know it fall will be on the horizon. Most anglers and other boat enthusiasts can squeeze out a few more months on the lake, but what comes next? It’s never too early in the year to prepare for snowmobile season as you’ll want to spend every free moment tearing through the powder when the time comes.

Snowmobile manufacturers try to lure consumers with revamped designs and pleas for brand loyalty, but the primary feature that truly distinguishes snow machines is the engine. As is the case with outboard motors, the choice is fairly straightforward: 2-stroke or 4-stroke. Just when it appeared that 4-cycle motors would dominate the market for environmental reasons, Evinrude created the E-TEC direct-injection system for its outboard motors. Ski-Doo, one of the world’s leading snowmobile manufacturers, was intrigued with these new, cleaner-running 2-stroke engines and modified them for winter.

The 600 H.O. E-TEC 2-cycle produces fewer carbon monoxide emissions than any 4-stroke version on the market. It meets and exceeds all Environmental Protection Agency standards for snowmobiles and runs best on Yamaha 2s oil and other similar specialized products. Its popularity has made 2-stroke engines relevant once again in the cold winter months. Before the snow begins to fall, evaluate the bevy of wintertime options.

Did you like this? Share it:

Additives Explained

oil gunk Boat owners who regularly use small crafts might wonder why 2-stroke oil additives matter so much. In truth, the additives found in a fuel-oil mix are just as important as the quality of the oil itself. The chief goal of any outboard motor oil is to lubricate the engine and keep it running smoothly. That would not be possible without additives such as ashless detergents.

Carbon buildup is a natural byproduct of a 2-stroke engine’s combustion process. This residue – usually lacquer or varnish – needs to be cleared away so that it doesn’t completely gum up the works. Ashless detergents are made from organic compounds, whereas many fuel additives in the past were rendered from heavy metals. As such, newer 2-cycle oil additives leave no trace of ash when burned. Marine engine oil featuring these detergents is usually characterized by a distinctive ammonia odor.

All this talk about combustion and engine buildup might suggest a few environmental hazards; however, the Environmental Protection Agency has taken actions to ensure that 2-stroke marine oil conforms to rigid environmental standards. For instance, outboard motor oil contains biodegrading agents that allow microorganisms to cleanse the water of hazardous materials. Although these agents have little positive effect on an engine’s performance, they add to a boater’s peace of mind.

Did you like this? Share it:

Different Engines Suit Different Purposes

2 cycle engine Contrary to popular belief, not all 2-cycle engines are suited for the same purposes. For the most part, 2-cycles can be separated into two distinct groups: water-cooled engines and air-cooled engines. Outboard motors are typically run at high speeds for long durations and then throttled down once a boater reaches his or her destination. Recirculated water keeps these engines cool. On the other hand, most chainsaws are stopped and started frequently, and their engines are air-cooled.

In automotive terms, the outboard motor can be likened to a country car engine – speeding along with minimal interference. The chainsaw motor is more akin to a city car that makes multiple pits tops. Not surprisingly, these very different beasts require different oil formulations. Outboard motors operate best when treated with heavy base oils that don’t evaporate quickly. Evinrude XD50 oil, for example, is specially designed for use in watercraft. Chainsaw motors require lighter base oil with detergent additives. In an outboard engine, these additives would leave destructive ash deposits. However, the chainsaw’s vibrations serve to knock these deposits out of an air-cooled engine.

Did you like this? Share it:

Bringing a Dunked Engine Back to Life

Accidents happen out on the open water – whether they owe to operational error or forces beyond our control. Either way, nobody’s perfect. If you operate a small craft such as a dinghy or perhaps an inflatable boat, chances are you’ve dropped an outboard motor into Davy Jones’ locker.

Small vessels – especially inflatables – ride low in the water, which means there’s very little room between the engine and the murky depths. One false move, and that motor takes an unwanted plunge. But resuscitating an outboard motor isn’t rocket science. In fact, you don’t even need to be a trained professional to bring that engine back to life.

If you dropped the engine in salt water, begin resuscitation by washing it thoroughly with fresh water. Next, remove the primer hose and spark plugs. Disconnect the rubber plug from the cylinder head. Begin draining water from the engine by laying it on its back and cranking the motor as many times as needed. Turn the engine upright and add one tablespoon of quality fuel/oil mix – Yamalube 2m oil does the trick nicely – into each spark plug hole.

Flush the carburetor by squeezing the primer bulb a few times. You’ll need to jettison all the moisture from the engine’s electrical components. Try some WD-40 or other de-watering fluid. Finally, reconnect the rubber plug on top of the cylinder head and restart your engine. Keep it running for a sustained period of time, say 30 minutes, to ensure that it’s working properly.

Did you like this? Share it:

More than 100 Years of Evinrude

More than 100 Years of Evinrude Since its inception 102 years ago, Evinrude has been a pioneer in the outboard motor market. Surprisingly, the first outboard motor built by company founder Ole Evinrude in 1907 wasn’t all that different from today’s 2-cycle engines. The components remain the same, but new Evinrude engines feature significantly increased speed and efficiency.

By 1930, Evinrude – or the Outboard Motor Company, as it was then known – had introduced the first electric-start outboard motor. A year later, Evinrude’s ingenuity paid off as it became the world’s largest outboard motor producer. During WWII, Evinrude secured a government contract to manufacture airplane parts in addition to its standard line of sturdy, dependable outboards. The company hit the ground running at war’s end, increasing production domestically.

Throughout the company’s history, Evinrude has continued the tradition of building and improving quality 2-cycle engines. In 2005, the Environmental Protection Agency presented the Evinrude E-TEC 2-stroke with its Clean Air Excellence Award. The E-TEC set a new standard for fuel efficiency and eco-friendly performance, and it runs best when well-lubricated with Evinrude oil. There’s no telling what this dynamic company will do next, but one thing is certain: Boaters will benefit.

Did you like this? Share it:

Personal Watercraft Safety

WaveRunners and other personal water craft promise hours of enjoyment on the open water – whether you’re taking a weekend trip to the lake or visiting friends at their seaside getaway. Just like all waterborne vessels, WaveRunners should be operated in a safe, responsible manner. As long as you keep a few basic safety tips in mind, you’re virtually guaranteed a carefree marine experience.

First and foremost, wear a life preserver. People who forgo life jackets out of pride are only doing themselves a disservice. Most states mandate life preservers, and the choice is a no-brainer anyway. Keep your vision from becoming obscured by donning a pair of goggles. You may also prefer to wear gloves, thereby ensuring a solid grip on your craft’s movements.

When other watercraft or swimmers are nearby, you should maintain at least 100 feet of distance. The worst WaveRunner accidents are undoubtedly head-on collisions.
Be sure to keep your personal water craft topped off with oil – that way the engine won’t overheat while you’re out tearing up the waves. High-quality 2-cycle bulk oil can keep your engine running smoothly all summer long.

Did you like this? Share it:

Lubrication Is Crucial

To continue our discussion about 2-cycle engine maintenance, let’s investigate other potential problem areas. Boaters know that 2-stroke outboard motors hold a distinct advantage over 4-strokes because of their simple design. The piston only travels through the cylinder twice: up once and down once. Two-strokes feature only three moving parts – piston, crankshaft, connecting rod – which drastically limits the number of things that could go wrong during a pleasant day on the water.

If you’re having trouble getting your engine started – or keeping it running for any period of time – check that the motor is well-lubricated with a quality 2-stroke oil such as Yamaha 2m oil. When the motor receives the proper mixture of oil and fuel, it emits tell-tale gray exhaust. Watch out for strange-colored emissions; black smoke implies that the fuel mixture needs to be adjusted.

Since the carburetor controls the leanness of your engine’s fuel intake, it’s worth checking out. If the incoming fuel is too lean, your engine will be under-lubricated and its life will be cut short. Check the air filter, as well, because you always want a steady flow of air to reach the engine components.

Did you like this? Share it:

Don’t Overlook the Water Pump

Don't Overlook the Water Pump As is the case with any machinery, outboard motors require occasional basic maintenance to run properly. Rather than waiting for something to go irreparably wrong, take a proactive approach to motor maintenance by making simple engine observations. Get to know the sound of your well-oiled outboard motor, and learn to recognize any deviations from that norm.

A functioning water pump is particularly important, as it draws water out of the engine and acts as a cooling agent. Without a water pump most 2-cycle engines would overheat in no time. To replace an ailing water pump, begin by removing the bolts from the bottom portion of the motor. Use an engine vice to securely mount the lower engine housing, making sure that any electrical wiring between the housings is disconnected.

Remove the water pump housing, and then replace the impeller. Beneath the impeller you’ll find three gasket seals; remove them. Use some of your supply of bulk outboard motor oil to lube the gaskets before slipping them back into place. Put the housing back into place, and then reconnect the wiring. You’ve just increased the lifespan of your outboard motor.

Did you like this? Share it:

Installing an Outboard Motor

Yesterday, we took a look at a wide range of outboard motors and provided tips on how to select the proper amount of horsepower for your boat. Once this process is complete, many DIY-type boat owners will want to perform the installation. Before installing the motor and leaving for your first test run, make sure you’re stocked up on bulk motor oil.

Double-check with your boat manufacturer to be sure that you have the right size of outboard motor. Don’t forget to factor in your towing needs: Will you be tubing or water skiing anytime soon? If so, you’ll require some extra horsepower.

Next, choose motor accessories to match the specifications of your boat. If you have cable steering or hydraulic lift, the burden of motor installation is much lighter to bear. Begin the physical part of the installation by measuring your craft’s transom (basically the height of the stern). Fit the motor so that the propeller reaches below the water line, but not low enough to cause drag.

Once the motor is positioned correctly, affix it to the top of the transom by tightening the clamps. Finally, attach a safety cable to the motor. This will keep your motor from sinking if it’s detached by a submerged rock or other debris. Now you’re ready to take your boat out on the open water and enjoy the warm summer breeze.

Did you like this? Share it:

M	T	W	T	F	S	S
1	2	3	4	5	6	7
8	9	10	11	12	13	14
15	16	17	18	19	20	21
22	23	24	25	26	27	28
29	30