Boating | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 17

Mixing Gas and Outboard Motor Oil

Some people see mixing outboard motor oil and gasoline as a chore, but I actually prefer it. It beats having to change the oil the traditional way twice a year, in my opinion at least. Each two-stroke engine specifies a different fuel to oil ratio, so be sure to consult your owner’s manual; when I mix in my Evinrude XD100, I use a 50:1 ratio.

To figure out the proper combination, you first have to convert everything to a common unit of measurement—ounces are the easiest. There are 128 ounces in a gallon. So lets say you are going to prepare 5 gallons of mixed fuel, which is equivalent to 640 ounces. Since I use a 50:1 ratio, I divide 640 by 50 to get 12.8—so I need 12.8 ounces of outboard motor oil.

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Is There a Difference Between Two- and Four-Stroke Oil?

Two-stroke engines are more powerful and compact than the four-stroke, which is why they are found on the back of so many boats. But some boats do have four-stroke engines. When you purchase outboard motor oil, you’ll notice that there is both two- and four-stroke oil, but is there really any difference?  As we all know, one of the biggest differences between the two types of motors is how you put oil in the system. In a two-stroke motor the gas and oil are mixed, while in a four-stroke the oil is contained in a separate compartment.

Two-stroke oil costs more, but is it really worth the extra money. The simple answer is yes. And the reason is that two-stroke motors are more susceptible to wear because of the immense amount of power they generate in half the movements. Two-stroke oils have higher ratings to ensure your engine gets the protection it need.

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The History of Synthetic Oil

Yesterday we discussed why using premium oil is so important for boaters, but what I failed to mention was that most premium bulk oil on the market today is synthetic. And while we may think that synthetics are relatively new, their origins date back many decades. During the 1930s and 1940s, Dr. Hermann Zorn began to research new engine lubricant which wouldn’t coagulate or become sticky like the oils of his day. His research led him to the conclusion that esters held the answer. At the same time as Zorn’s research, the US was in the process of synthesizing esters for use in oils.

Synthetic oils were first used in WWII by both Germany and the United States. It wasn’t until the 1960s however until Chevron released the first synthetic for commercial use. The quality of synthetics has continually improved, with new esters and methods constantly being utilized. Today, synthetic oils are the gold standard of the industry.

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3-Bladed v. 4-Bladed Propellers

For years, three-blade propellers have been the standard issue for virtually all boat motors. But on certain boats, particularly bigger ones, a four-blade propeller can offer some distinct advantages, so their usage is becoming more and more common. Although three-blade propellers will be faster at full throttle, most of the time four-blade propellers are more stable and efficient, meaning you spend less on gas and outboard motor oil.

The overall increased surface area of the blades on a four-blade prop make planing easier, which is particularly useful when you are pulling skiers or wakeboarders. This large amount of blade area also reduces vibrations, making for a smoother ride on all levels. There is no cut-and-dry method for choosing which propeller is best for your vessel; there are simply too many variables in the equation.

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How to Pull a Skier: Part Three

One way or another, the skier is eventually going to go down, and the proper steps must be taken to ensure their safety. As soon as the skier lets go of the towrope, immediately grab your safety flag—which should be stowed away with your extra outboard motor oil and other supplies. The flag alerts other boaters to the person in the water. Quickly circle back around and come back to the skier.

You should always pass the skier on the driver’s side of the vessel, which allows you to talk and keep them in constant eye contact. If the skier wants to go another round, bring the boat around to the right, which will draw the towrope up next to the skier. If, on the other hand, they’ve had enough, simply pull forward to give them access to the step. In our final installment tomorrow, we’ll cover some basic tips and precautions to ensure safe skiing.

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Pulling a Water Skier: Part Two

Once the towrope is taut, give it some gas and accelerate smoothly. A quick caveat before we continue with how to pull a skier: Be sure to adjust your ratio of gasoline to Yamalube oil carefully to ensure peak engine performance. Many people accelerate too slowly, which means the skier will be dragged under the water. Note that if the skier is only using one ski, you will want to give the boat a little extra juice.

After the skier is up, settle in at your cruising speed and head for open water. When making a turn, begin by angling the boat slightly to one side, then bringing it back around in a circle to the other side. Be sure to maintain your speed throughout the turn, as the boat will naturally slow down. Once the circle is complete, straighten your boat out so you are going the opposite direction from which you came. Tomorrow we’ll go over the protocol for when the skier goes down and cover some general safety tips.

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Essential Boating Supplies

When you neglect to bring extra gas and supplies with you on a road trip, the consequences are minimal—perhaps you’ll have to phone in for a tow truck or get a ride to the closest town. But when you forget to pack the proper supplies on a boat outing it can sometimes be difficult to garner immediate assistance. To avoid incident on the water, here are a few essential supplies to always keep on hand:

~First aid kit

~Emergency Radio

~Extra food and water

~Gasoline and outboard motor oil

~A set of tools

~Extra parts, such as prop fins and fasteners

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What is TC-W3 Certification?

Yesterday I suggested using TC-W3 certified oil, and you may be asking yourself what sets these oils apart. All outboard motor oils have certain specifications which you can use to gauge their effectiveness i.e. lubricity, viscosity and fluidity. And for most people, comparing the flash points of different oils isn’t too appealing, so it’s nice if you can someone else provide the comparative analysis for you. 

Each of the outboard motor oils inspected by the NMMA goes through independent testing to determine how it holds up in a range of conditions. After testing the oils on several engines from varying manufacturers, the NMMA takes the data and sees if the oil meets the minimum requirements for certification. As I said yesterday, TC-W3 is the gold standard in the industry; the only real difference between certified oils, such as Evinrude XD100 oil and Yamalube, is the additives the manufacturer uses.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part Three

Yesterday we covered how to launch your boat at the dock, so today it’s time for the other half of the equation: getting your vessel back on the trailer. Although the two tasks are similar, many people get into trouble during this part. The easiest method is to use two people.

Start by dropping someone off at the dock to go get the vehicle; I recommend leaving the most experienced boater at the helm. Once you drop the person off, cruise around the no wake zone until they return with the car and trailer. After they’ve backed the trailer into the water, approach it head-on with the boat. Here is where most people go wrong; they cut the engine too soon, meaning the boat has to be guided by hand onto the trailer. Instead, coast in slowly and cut the engine after you have some momentum built up. Have the driver waiting at the trailer to quickly secure the boat. Before you leave the ramp, make sure your skis, flags, Yamaha 2W oil and other supplies are tied down and secure.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part One

Having a permanent docking location for your vessel is an enormous convenience, but most recreational boaters aren’t fortunate enough to have a spot in the water for their boat. Instead, we are forced to launch our boat every time we want to use it and allocate storage space for the watercraft and trailer on dry land. And while it may be wearisome to constantly have to pull your boat in and out of the water, trailiering your vessel does have its distinct advantages.

First, you don’t have to worry about other boaters’ negligence when docking, mooring or transporting supplies around the dock. Constant exposure to the water and the elements can corrode the exterior of your boat and the metal components, as well as the paint on the hull. When your boat is on the trailer, it’s also easier to change the Evinrude XD 100 and perform other routine maintenance. Over the next few days we’ll cover some of the basic procedures for launching and , including some tips to preserve your craft while it’s in storage.

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How to Change Outboard Motor Oil

While the two-stroke engine has fallen out of favor, it does boast one distinct advantage over its four-stroke successor: you don’t have to change the outboard motor oil. Sure, you have to mix the oil with gasoline consistently, but changing your oil can be a hassle. And if you neglect to do it, you can cause serious damage to your engine. You don’t have to worry if you have a four-stroke, however; changing your outboard motor oil is simple:

~Take the boat out of the water and put it on a trailer
~Remove the engine cover
~Check the oil using the dipstick in the crankcase
~Use the trim button to raise the motor, allowing the oil to drain out from the crankcase easily
~Drain the oil into an empty container. Take out the drain plug to allow all the oil to draw off.
~Replace the drain plug and refill the oil until it reaches the full level

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Three

If you have adequate water flow into the strainer and can’t find any obstruction, chances are the problem is something more serious. Unfasten the clamps and remove the hose going into the water pump. Look in the seacock to ensure proper water flow: if water isn’t flowing, it’s an indication that you have a clog somewhere in the hose; if not, you’ll have to dig deeper.

Remove the face from the water pump and inspect the impeller; the fins should be pliable and not show any signs of wear. In addition to extra fuel and Evinrude XD50 oil, you should carry a spare set of fins with you in just in case this scenario occurs. If your fins are in good shape, all signs point to a broken water pump. This is obviously the worst-case scenario, but all is not lost. To get back to shore, remove one of the other electric pumps from the system and use it to connect the raw water intake to the cooling system, effectively circumventing the intake pump.

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