Boating | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 16

Boat Ownership: Part Four

Every boat—at least the ones manufactured after 1972—comes with a distinct Hull Identification Number (HIN) which is etched onto the transom. The HIN, which is a series of 12 letters and numbers, gives your boat a unique identity that can be used in the event of theft or a manufacturer recall. Many states require a registration number, which is not the same the State Registration number.

The HIN format changed in 1984, so we’ll cover the most up-to-date criteria. The first three characters specify the manufacturer; the next five are the hull serial number; followed by the date of certification; and the final two numbers are the model year. It’s important to keep your HIN in a safe location so you have it in the event of an emergency. You should always have emergency products and information like life jackets and extra outboard motor oil.

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Boat Ownership: Part One

The decision to purchase a boat shouldn’t be taken lightly. Along with your home and automobile, it will undoubtedly be one of the biggest single purchases you ever make. And the initial investment in the boat is just the beginning; then there is insurance, licensing, gas, outboard motor oil and the routine upkeep to take care of.

Since there are so many factors to mull over, I thought we’d give a quick crash course on what to take into consideration when you are thinking about investing in your own vessel. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering everything from selecting your hull and motor type, to acquiring the proper licenses and certifications.

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The Anatomy of the Two-Stroke Engine: Part Four

When we left off yesterday, the piston had just bottomed out in the crankcase. Once this occurs, the momentum in the crankshaft will begin to drive the piston back towards the spark plug. As the process continues and more of the gas/air/outboard motor oil mixture is compressed, a vacuum is formed in the crankcase, which in turn opens the reed valve and sucks in more of the mixture from the carburetor.

At the end of the compression stroke, the spark plug fires again and the cycle is repeated. The two-stroke engine derives its name from the fact that only two strokes—the combustion and compression—are required to complete a full cycle. As you’ve probably ascertained, the four-stroke engine has four strokes: intake, compression, combustion and exhaust.

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The Anatomy of the Two-Stroke Engine: Part One

Four-stroke engines are ubiquitous in automobile manufacturing and while you may consider the two-stroke engine an antiquated instrument, it still has myriad uses. From yard tools and dirt bikes to RC toys and outboard motors, the two-stroke engine is still utilized in many smaller vehicles and implements. Before we start to overview the inner workings of the two-stroke engine, let’s highlight a few of its main advantages over its four-stroke counterpart:

~Simple construction: the absence of valves lowers the unit’s weight and minimizes the opportunity for breakdowns.

~More power: since two-stroke engines for every revolution, as opposed to every other revolution, they can generate more power than a four-stroke engine.

~Work in any direction: if you try to operate a four-stroke engine upside-down or sideways, you may encounter problems with oil flow. The gasoline and outboard motor oil are combined in a two-stroke engine, eliminating this problem.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Five

We still have at least of few weeks of boating season left, but I figured it was important to discuss how to winterize and prepare your outboard motor for storage. It’s essential to take the proper precautions when  to ensure it starts up easily next spring. Before your last outing of the season, add some fuel conditioner to your mix of fuel and Evinrude XD 100 oil.

Always drain the system of all the gas and oil before putting the boat into storage, as the fuel will go bad if it just sits for months. If your lower unit calls for periodic lubrication changes, this is the time to do it. Look over the entire motor to ensure all of the bolts and fittings are in place and taut. Finally, put the motor in a dry place and keep it well covered, as small animals love to nest up in the crevices during the winter.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Four

One of the most perilous times for your boat is the transfer from dry land to the water. This often involves a lengthy drive and being in reverse when the end of your trailer is over 20 feet away. Particularly when you’re backing your boat, the motor is extremely susceptible, so it’s imperative to take some precautionary measures to make sure your boat makes it into the water in one piece.

First, always make sure your vessel is topped off with fuel and outboard motor oil before you reach the marina. When backing the boat towards the water, always have a spotter outside the boat to guide you. If you are unfamiliar with launching your boat, it’s a good idea to take some dry runs in the driveway before you try the real thing. Use your mirrors as you are reversing, moving the steering wheel in the direction you want the back to go.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Three

Yesterday we went over some basic post-outing maintenance, which is essential to keep your engine running smoothly on a day-to-day basis. But for longevity, you’ll want to also go through a more extensive maintenance routine periodically. I do this routine about once a month during the season and when putting my boat in and taking it out of storage.

First, check the fuel and Yamaha 2M oil in the tank to ensure there isn’t any water in it; actually, I do this before and after each outing. Inspect the fuel line for any cracks or signs of wear and corrosion. The fuel primer bulb obviously should not have any cracks, and it should also feel pliable. Examine the fuel tank for damage and ensure the tank vent is aspirating properly.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Two

Immediately following every outing you should run through a short checklist to ensure your motor wasn’t damaged and will be ready for your next outing. The first line of business is to flush the engine. For this you’ll need a set of rabbit ears, which is a pair of rubber hoses connected by a metal clamp. The apparatus slips on to the lower unit where you can attach the garden hose.

When you’re flushing the engine, ensure that the water flowing through the system isn’t hot. If the water is hot or the flow is weak, it’s an indication that some debris is blocking the system. You can easily remove the blockage by inserting a small piece of wire into the flow tube. Once the engine has been flushed, spray down everything with some lubricant. Finish by topping off your tank with a mixture of fuel and Evinrude XD100.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part One

The vast majority of outboard motor problems are easily preventable with proper care and routine maintenance. Flushing the engine after six hours of boating isn’t fun, but it will help you keep your engine performing in peak condition and extend its longevity. Although motor maintenance is a chore, it’s easy for virtually anyone with a tool kit.

Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering some basic preventative care that should be done after every outing. We’ll also discuss some of the keys for long-term care, how to prepare the motor for storage, and some tips for protecting the unit during transportation. And we’ll go over the basics, including how to select and mix your outboard motor oil properly.

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Ole Evinrude: Father of the Outboard Motor

Ole Evinrude was born in Norway’s capital city of Oslo in 1877 but immigrated to the US with his family five years later. During his adolescence, Ole was sent to work in machinery stores and to teach himself engineering. He evolved into a machinist and worked at various firms around the Midwest.

Ole went into business for himself in 1900, and by 1907, he had built the first outboard motor. That original model was forged from brass and steel with a crank to get the two-cycle engine going. The business’ growth was steady after the conception of the motor until 1919, when Ole improved on his design, sold his stake in the old company and started anew. The Evinrude name has reached legendary proportions in the boating industry, and you’ll still find it plastered on everything for two-cycle motors to Evinrude XD100 oil.

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Fate Favors the Prepared Boater

As you can probably imagine, I’m always a little over prepared whenever I take my boat out. And the ironic thing is that the ones who are prepared usually aren’t the ones who need the extra supplies out at sea. In fact, I’ve definitely stopped and assisted boaters more times than I’ve had trouble on the water myself. Just last weekend my son and I had to take a quick break from our bass fishing in order to give a family some assistance.

You could tell the guy hadn’t owned a boat long, as the license stickers still had their showroom sheen. It was evident that his wife was more than a little peeved. The boat was just bobbing along and the engine was sputtering, so my son and I coasted over, and I told him to cut the engine. After asking him a few questions I was quickly able to diagnose the problem; he hadn’t mixed any outboard motor oil with the fuel and the unit for overheating. Since I always have extra two-cycle oil on board, I gave him some and showed him how to mix it safely.

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What Makes Some Synthetics Better?

When you’re buying oil and comparing Evinrude XD 100 and XD 50, do you really know what the difference is? The XD100 is more expensive, so it’s fairly obvious that it is superior in some way. Virtually all synthetics start with the same base structure, especially variants of the same manufacturer. The difference is in the additives.

Oils that are more expensive contain more additives, which enhance the performance of your engine. While standard grade oil will provide lubrication and protect your engine, premium oils work to eliminate ash, smoke and odor too. They also can improve the longevity of your motor.

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