Engine Oil Specs: Part One

For those of us who aren’t certified mechanics or spend every waking moment doing research on our vehicles, choosing the proper parts and products can often be a guessing game. When it comes to your outboard motor oil, however, there is no need to make guesses. There are testing associations in both the US and overseas that work to ensure oils meet certain standards and specifications.

In Europe, this group is comprised of 13 major manufacturers and known as the European Automobile Manufacturers Association, or the ACEA. Their US counterpart, the American Petroleum Institute (API), includes over 400 corporations and is responsible for producing service categories. In additions to the API, the US also has the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM), which set limits on oil quality. Tomorrow we will go into more specifics about each organization and take a closer look at the information they provide.

Changing Your Outboard Motor Oil

Most manufacturers recommend changing your outboard motor oil and filter after every 100 hours of use or every season, which ever comes first. Some people may postpone this task, but it is essential if you want to prolong the life of your boat and achieve optimal performance. Changing your oil may seem daunting, but with a few wrenches and some knowhow, you can get the job done in no time.

Always remember to drain all of the old oil before refilling the crankcase. Mixing old and new oils will leave deposits in the system and limit the effectiveness of the new oil. Also, be sure to add a quart of oil for the new filter and run the engine when you are done to ensure that the oil pressure is correct and there are no leaky areas.

Tips for Cleaning a Boat

Here are some easy tips to consider when you’re cleaning your boat:

Wash frequently with a sponge or nonabrasive pad and plain water; this approach is very effective at removing salt. Additional “elbow-grease” is required to remove stains.

When using detergents, only use soaps that are phosphate-free, biodegradable and non-toxic. Any soap should be used sparingly, because even non-toxic products can be harmful to wildlife. For example, detergents will destroy the natural oils on fish gills, limiting their ability to breathe.

Wax your boat, if appropriate. A good coat of wax prevents surface dirt from becoming ingrained. Clean teak with a mild soap and abrasive pads or bronze wool. This method is safe for the environment and better for the boat than the solvents in standard teak cleaners which tend to eat away at the wood and to damage seam compounds.

Avoid detergents that contain ammonia, sodium hypochlorite, chlorinated solvents (bleach), petroleum distillates, and lye. Once you’ve thoroughly cleaned the outside of your craft, ensure that you have appropriate levels of outboard motor oil and other essential fluids.

How to Tune an Outboard Motor: Part Three

Now that we have done a thorough inspection of all of the fastenings on the lower unit, it is time to lubricate the grease fittings. The two primary parts to apply the grease to are the swivel bracket, which is the bearing the motor turns on, and the transom clamp screw. Once this is completed, work the throttle, forward-reverse shift lever and starter cord to identify the moving parts inside the power head; apply grease to all of these components.

After completing the lubrication of the moving parts, disconnect the wires from the spark plugs. It is especially important to take note of where these connections are so that you replace them correctly. Next, remove each spark plug using your adjustable wrench and replace it with one of the appropriate model. When installing the spark plugs, be sure to not over-tighten, as too much pressure can damage the cylinder head. Tomorrow we will finish the tune-up and review how to refill the outboard motor oil.

How to Tune an Outboard Motor: Part Two

Yesterday we went over the necessary parts and materials that you will need to tune your outboard motor. Before you begin dissembling your motor, refer to your owner’s manual for specific procedures and recommended parts or boat motor oil. As with most repairs, we are going to start with a visual inspection; ensure that the motor is off, then remove the cowling to expose the power head.

Start the propeller and examine the unit for leaks, cracks and other damage. Refer to your owner’s manual to see if it advises periodic lubricant changes; if so, remove the lower unit’s plugs and drain the fluid into your empty container. Refill the drained lubricant until it begins to seep out the top fill hole, and replace the plug. Follow this with a thorough inspection of the lower unit, checking for missing nuts or bolts and replacing worn fastenings. Tomorrow we will continue our series on outboard motor maintenance.

Benefits of Synthetic Oil

While the mass manufacturers of mineral oil tend to stifle this fact, the truth is that synthetic oil performs better than mineral oil in all circumstances. Whether it’s an automobile or outboard motor oil, synthetic oil has all the same properties as mineral oil, it just works better and burns cleaner. Synthetic oil has been around for decades, but has only come into the mainstream as people divert their focus to renewable sources of energy. With climate change imminent, it’s important to start switching to synthetic motor oil in all engines. It’s well known that the carbon emissions from engines contribute to the effects of climate change more than all other sources. But synthetic oil can reduce emissions by a significant amount by just using it in an engine.

Synthetic oil tends to cost a bit more than mineral oil (otherwise everyone would buy it), but it is well worth the investment. By purchasing synthetic motor oil, you are helping the environment, and your engine. Synthetic oil cleans and lubricates engines better than mineral oil, saving money on future repairs.