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Archive for the ‘Yamalube’ Category
As I mentioned to other day, you initial investment in your vessel is just that—the initial investment. Just like with a car, you will continually be sinking money into your boat. You may have the budget for a down payment and finance charges, but do you have the means for everything else? And will it really be worth it? Here is a quick rundown of 
some of the basic costs you’ll have to deal with:
~Finance Payments
~Registration (for boat and trailer) and licensing
~Insurance
~Dock Fees
~Gas and Yamalube oil
~Dock Fees
~Taxes
~Storage
~Routine Maintenance
Once the towrope is taut, give it some gas and accelerate smoothly. A quick caveat before we continue with how to pull a skier: Be sure to adjust your ratio of gasoline to Yamalube oil carefully to ensure peak engine performance. Many people accelerate too slowly, which means the skier will be dragged under the water. Note that if the skier is only using one ski, you will want to give the boat a little extra juice.
After the skier is up, settle in at your cruising speed and head for open water. When making a turn, begin by angling the boat slightly to one side, then bringing it back around in a circle to the other side. Be sure to maintain your speed throughout the turn, as the boat will naturally slow down. Once the circle is complete, straighten your boat out so you are going the opposite direction from which you came. Tomorrow we’ll go over the protocol for when the skier goes down and cover some general safety tips.
Yesterday we covered how to launch your boat at the dock, so today it’s time for the other half of the equation: getting your vessel back on the trailer. Although the two tasks are similar, many people get into trouble during this part. The easiest method is to use two people.
Start by dropping someone off at the dock to go get the vehicle; I recommend leaving the most experienced boater at the helm. Once you drop the person off, cruise around the no wake zone until they return with the car and trailer. After they’ve backed the trailer into the water, approach it head-on with the boat. Here is where most people go wrong; they cut the engine too soon, meaning the boat has to be guided by hand onto the trailer. Instead, coast in slowly and cut the engine after you have some momentum built up. Have the driver waiting at the trailer to quickly secure the boat. Before you leave the ramp, make sure your skis, flags, Yamaha 2W oil and other supplies are tied down and secure.
Yesterday we examined the merits of both new and used boats. Since there is much more to take into consideration when purchasing a used watercraft, today we’ll take some time to go over some of the essentials to inspect before purchasing a used vessel. In addition to your personal examination, you will want to have a qualified marine surveyor do the same.
Begin by examining for signs of exterior damage; mismatched paint is often an indication of significant bodywork in the past. Check the upholstery, seals around windows and the entire hull thoroughly. Although you may not have an acute knowledge of marine engines, there are a few quick tricks that will give you an indication of how well the previous owner maintained the craft. Examine the oil and transmission fluid, testing for grit content, color and smell—if these fluids are in bad condition, chances are the boat wasn’t well-maintained. Also ensure the previous owner used premium products, such as Yamalube 2M oil.
Now that the engine has been flushed, you can turn off the engine and turn your attention to the fuel aspect of engine maintenance. Never use fuel that is over two months old, which means you must refrain from using the same fuel from last season. Start by inspecting the fuel lines and primer bulb for cracks and other signs of wear. Ensure all of the fuel line fittings are secure and there is no rust on the fuel tanks or the clamps.
Open the engine cover and check to see if there is any leakage. Lubricate all of the moving parts in the engine, including the shift and carb valves. And if your have a four-stroke engine, don’t forget to change your Yamalube 2S oil.
All of the other maintenance tips and advice that we offer up in this blog are superfluous if you can’t even get your machine to start. There are myriad things that could be preventing your vehicle from starting, and here is a quick run through of some of the most common:
~Air Filter: the ATV needs to bring in air to mix with the fuel and Yamalube oil, and if the filter is dirty, it impedes the process.
~Exhaust: the motor also needs to release air, so make sure that the exhaust pipe is clear.
~Spark: there are several reasons why the motor might not be generating a spark when your try to start it, including the spark plugs, wires, pulse generator and the reverse or ignition switches.
~Compression: worn cylinders, rings, valves and gaskets could be keeping the compression too low.
~Carburetor: the carburetor is a critical component to any engine, maintaining the ratio of fuel, oil and water; refer to last week’s post for maintenance tips.
Spring officially started last weekend, and while for some people the season is a time for blooming flowers and love, spring only means one thing to me: ATV season. Like most ATVers, I love the mud, and springs in the Pacific Northwest give us an ample supply. I’ve been tied up with some chores and duties around the homestead, but I think that I will finally have a chance to take my ATV out this weekend.
In the next few days, I hope to be able to do all of my preseason ATV checks. If you’ve never done this before, it is fairly simple. You’ll want to thoroughly inspect your vehicle for any cracked or loose fittings, and be sure to top off the Yamalube 2w oil and other essential fluids.
Living in the Pacific Northwest, I have been disappointed with the snow this season—to put it lightly. Usually I take my snowmobiles out several times a week, but for most of the season it hasn’t even been worth my time. This weekend I’m heading out to my buddy’s cabin, and there is sure to be some prime powder. To that end, I am going to do some basic maintenance and checks on my snowmobiles, which have been largely neglected this season.
There are a few checks that I check before every ride, including the fuel and level of Yamalube oil. I also make sure to check the engine coolant and brake fluid, just to be sure that they aren’t running too low. Remember to always inspect the engine coolant when the machine is cold to get an accurate reading. Tomorrow I will go over some other basic maintenance points that should always be checked before heading out.
Yesterday we overviewed the main process that takes place in the cycle of a two-stroke engine. Now we are going to breakdown this process a little further to better understand what is occurring in this process. When the piston is working in its cycle, the crankshaft will give the piston momentum so that it can return to the spark plug for the compression stroke. During this process the piston compresses the mixture of Yamalube oil, fuel and air to create a vacuum, which in turn opens the reed valve and draws in more of this mixture from the carburetor.
Once the cycle is completed, the piston will fire again and repeat the process. The fact that there are two strokes—the compression and the combustion—is how the engine gets its name. Because the piston accomplishes so many tasks, the two-stroke engine so lightweight and versatile. Tomorrow we will review some of the major pros and cons of the two-stroke engine.
As you can probably ascertain from its name, Yamalube oil is a product of the Yamaha Company. Aside from their extensive line of motor vehicles, Yamaha’s selection of Yamalube products is one of their most lucrative endeavors. In order to reach the widest market possible, there are several varieties of Yamalube available that are specifically catered to certain vehicles.
The full synthetic blend is for high-performance use, such as racing and low-temperature snowmobiling. Semi-synthetic Yamalube oil, such as 10W-50 and 0W-30, is created from a proprietary blend of synthetic and mineral oils. Their mineral oil is produced from the highest quality base stocks and can be used in a wide range of small motor vehicles.