Archive for the ‘Oil Care’ Category
Boat owners who regularly use small crafts might wonder why 2-stroke oil additives matter so much. In truth, the additives found in a fuel-oil mix are just as important as the quality of the oil itself. The chief goal of any outboard motor oil is to lubricate the engine and keep it running smoothly. That would not be possible without additives such as ashless detergents.
Carbon buildup is a natural byproduct of a 2-stroke engine’s combustion process. This residue – usually lacquer or varnish – needs to be cleared away so that it doesn’t completely gum up the works. Ashless detergents are made from organic compounds, whereas many fuel additives in the past were rendered from heavy metals. As such, newer 2-cycle oil additives leave no trace of ash when burned. Marine engine oil featuring these detergents is usually characterized by a distinctive ammonia odor.
All this talk about combustion and engine buildup might suggest a few environmental hazards; however, the Environmental Protection Agency has taken actions to ensure that 2-stroke marine oil conforms to rigid environmental standards. For instance, outboard motor oil contains biodegrading agents that allow microorganisms to cleanse the water of hazardous materials. Although these agents have little positive effect on an engine’s performance, they add to a boater’s peace of mind.
It’s important to keep an outboard engine in the best condition for superior performance, and with this goal comes a number of annual checks that will ensure clean and efficient operation. Take these annual steps to keep the outboard running at its best:
_Lower Unit: change the gear lubricant in the lower unit on an annual basis, and inspect the old outboard motor oil for metal fragments (if found disassemble the gearbox and for maintenance) and evidence of water intrusion (if water is found replace the seals).
_Water Pump Impeller: it’s best to replace the water pump impeller at least once every two years, or each year if the engine is exposed to salt water. Inspect the pump housing, and replace it if damaged, and also inspect the old impeller for missing pieces, and remove from engine as necessary.
_Powerhead: do a full inspection of the powerhead on an annual basis. Make sure to check the engine wiring for corrosion, inspect the fuel lines, replace the spark plugs, check all the fasteners, and lubricate the essential engine components as needed.
If all the used oil from people in the United States alone who changed their own oil were re-used and recycled, there would be enough motor oil from that population alone to power 50 million automobiles each year. The used oil from just one oil change can contaminate 1 million gallons of fresh water-a year’s supply of drinking water for fifty people.
During normal use of marine engine oil, impurities such as dirt, toxic chemicals, and heavy metal scrapings can mix in with the oil, causing it not to perform as well as it once did. Used oil must be replaced periodically to help machines run their smoothest. Used motor oil is slow to degrade, adheres to everything from bird feathers to beach sand, and is a major contaminant in waterways and is a potential pollutant of drinking water sources. On average, 4 million people reuse motor oil for other equipment or take it to a facility with recycling capabilities. Used motor oil from automobiles, motorcycles, farm equipment, and landscaping equipment, as well as boats, can be recycled. Recycled used motor oil can be reinvented as new oil, processed into fuel oils, and serve as raw materials for the petroleum industry. One gallon of used motor oil produces the same 2.5 quarts of lubricating oil as 42 gallons of crude oil can.
With a four-stroke outboard motor, you will need to change the boat motor oil at frequent intervals. (A traditional two-stroke outboard motor doesn’t require engine oil because the oil and gasoline mix provides lubrication for the motor.) For a four-stroke outboard engine, it is generally recommended that the oil is changed once a year or every 100 hours of running time in fresh water, whichever comes sooner. For saltwater usage or if the four-stroke motor is run hard, the oil should be changed twice as often-for every 50 hours of running time and or twice a year if you are a frequent boater. A tip before you begin: have plenty of rags or absorbent pads ready to use during and after the oil change.
Pull the boat out of the water onto dry land and remove the engine cover (which usually is secured with one or two latches), setting it off to the side so that its surface does not become scratched. The top section of the outboard engine is called “the power head” and below it is the lower gearcase. Pull out the dip stick to assess the condition of the oil inside the crankcase. The drain plug is in the midsection of the outboard engine, and it will need to be loosened in order to drain the oil.
A table can be helpful to provide some leverage for the draining process. One technique is to turn the steering wheel so that the drain plug on the motor is facing inward, placing an oil pan on the table and under the drain plug to catch the existing oil. Back the drain plug out with the appropriate socket wrench, having a pan ready to catch the oil, because it will flow freely. Once all of the oil has drained, wipe up excess oil. Replace the drain plug, making sure it is secured.
The oil filter will need to be changed every time the outboard motor oil is changed. Be sure and place a couple of rags or absorbent pads under the filter cap to collect potential oil or debris. Try to loosen the cap, using the appropriate wrench. You may have to clean the filter cap with an absorbent pad; if this doesn’t work, get a screwdriver and hammer and tap the screwdriver tip down into the cap, rotating the existing oil filter until it loosens enough to be removed.
Before you replace the old oil filter with a new one, dip your finger into the old oil and rub a bead of oil around the edge of the new oil filter’s gasket o-ring, which will ease the future removal of the new filter when it needs to be replaced with the next oil change. If you will be boating in a hot climate that stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, use 25W-40 motor oil; in a cooler climate, use a 10W-30. Screw the new oil filter into position. Tighten the new oil filter by hand, ensuring it is snug with an additional ¾ to 1 full turn. Once the oil filter is in place and the drain plug is secured tightly, remove the plug for the fill and add the new oil using a funnel. Check your manufacturer’s manual for specifications regarding the amount of oil to use. Finally, check your dipstick to make sure there is enough oil. For environmental purposes, please dispose of discarded outboard engine oil at an approved hazardous materials collection center. Happy boating!
Owner’s manuals for outboard motors made in 1992 or prior used to state that premium fuel was required for proper operation, because during that time, premium outboard motor fuel was manufactured containing additives that minimized the formation of deposits inside the engines. During those years, the best oil available was rated at TCW-2 and did not contain the detergents and carbon preservative ingredients that marine engine oil such as XD-30, XD-50, and XD-100 does today. The federal government ruled in the late 1990s that all grades of fuel were required to include identical additive ingredients, and the premium fuel requirement for outboard motors was discontinued.
If you still have some TC2-W outboard motor oil, it can still be used in a motor from 1992 or before. If you choose to use TC2-W oil in an older motor, Evinrude recommends addition of a product such as Carbon Guard to lessen carbon deposit formation. Be aware, however, that using TCW-2 oil in a motor that requires TCW-3 oil will void your warranty should any oil-related malfunction occur.
In the last couple of blogs, we’ve covered some basic fuel and oil questions in regard to boating. One frequently asked question that was not previously addressed was, “I have some outboard motor oil that has been sitting on the shelf for a few years. Is it any good? Can I still use it?”
The answer is: shake it up a bit and it should be fine. It may need to be room temperature to perform at its best, so avoid extreme heat or cold.
What is oxygenated fuel? Oxygenated fuel contains oxygen as part of its chemical makeup. The purpose of fuel oxygenation is often to reduce carbon monoxide levels created while the fuel burns. Usually oxygenates come in the form of gasoline additives, such as alcohol.
Some boaters are concerned with the possibility than an oxygenated fuel can harm their motor and interfere with the performance of their outboard motor oil. Outboard motors can generally tolerate up to 10% alcohol content in fuels, which is the maximum amount allowed by the United States.
Just as it is important to maintain your car’s engine for optimum performance, your boat requires a certain amount of care for consistent and smooth operation. Since an outboard motor hangs outside the hull of a boat, it requires special attention to prolong its life. Caution when transporting your boat to the destination of your planned outing is extremely important. The motor and boat trailer should be braced securely so that the motion of land travel does not cause permanent damage.
Each time a boat is returned from a salt water excursion, the outboard motor should be flushed out with fresh water to prevent the pump and lines from corrosion. Outboard motor oil and gas lines should be drained and disconnected before storing your boat for an extended period of time to keep the carburetor clean. The area around the propeller and gears of the motor should be checked for cleanliness and excess water accumulation. The pump inside the motor should also be checked to ensure the impellers do not look worn. If all of these steps are taken regularly, your outboard motor should provide its best possible performance.
The viscosity of boat motor oil is one of its most important properties, as it measures how any given oil will flow. Thicker oils will generally have a higher viscosity than thinner oils. The viscosity of boat motor oil is essential for productive engine operation.
The numbers and letters on boat motor oil packaging refer to measurements that have been taken at specific temperatures. A “W” means the oil meets viscosity specifications for winter use. Multi-viscosity boat motor oils prevent the oil from thinning as it warms up because polymers have been added to prevent the oil from thinning. It is wise to use multi-viscosity boat motor oil with the narrowest span of viscosity for the temperatures you will encounter-in the winter, for the lowest expected temperature, and for the summer, for the highest temperature anticipated.