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Archive for the ‘Motor Oil’ Category
Scratches on a new vehicle, whether it’s a car or a boat, really irritate me. I recently found some scratches on my brand new WaveRunner which absolutely drove me nuts. Fortunately, I have plenty of experience fixing scratches to look brand new.
Using epoxy fillers, toothpicks, sandpaper, sealant, touch up paint, and polyurethane clear coat, I can fix just about any scratch. It is very time consuming to apply and let the different fillers dry, and then sand them down and paint, but the results are completely worth it. I do need to go to the store to pick up some matching paint, so I suppose while I’m there I’ll also purchase some WaveRunner oil.
MerCruiser has been hyping its Axius and Axius Premier piloting system. According to the company the piloting systems “turn the most stressful part of boating into something you’ll enjoy.” Apparently, the company has made control and handling easier with an intuitive joystick.
The Axius system works well with boat packages from 27 to 46 feet that utilize a dual sterndrive. Docking is supposed to be easier and more “worry-free.” I’ll admit, the SmartCraft digital throttle and shift does sound enticing. I may need to look more into these systems the next type I pick up some synthetic oil outboard motor.
I know I spend a lot of time on this blog writing about outboard oil, but today I’d like to focus on controls. Why controls? They are the primary contact point for most boat drivers, but I doubt most boat owners know much about them.
For example, did you know that while controls come in different shapes and styles, most have a dual-function in that they control both the throttle and shift. Single-engine controls typically have one handle, while dual installations have two. Boats with multiple engines are often accompanied by controls that have more handles.
There was some clamoring about the post from yesterday that I didn’t give enough cipher information. Let me back track and explain a bit more about the driveshaft length letters in an Evinrude motor’s serial number. The letter L corresponds to a 17-inch driveshaft, Y to a 19-inch driveshaft, X to a 20-inch driveshaft, and Z to a 22-inch driveshaft.
To know what year your motor was produced, remember the word “introduces.” The letter I=1, N=2, T=3, R=4, O=5, D=6, U=7, C=8, E=9, and S=0. Therefore if that part of the motor’s serial number says CE, which means the motor was made in 1989. Maybe you can use this information to enlighten your mechanic next time you pick up Johnson outboard oil.
Have you ever opened a present and said, “Oh, no, you shouldn’t have!” and inside your head thought, “No, really, you shouldn’t have.” I’ve never understood why people give knick-knacks, tchokes, and other random items that will likely never be used. Those items may have been given with love, but they end up wasting space. I much prefer giving and receiving practical gifts.
For example, instead of giving each other subpar $10 gifts this season, by buddies and I decided to go in on bulk motor oil. We all enjoy fishing fall through summer, so this gift will definitely be used. I’ll take this kind of gift over another reindeer tie any day.
Unless you live in Miami, you need to winterize your inboard/outboard motor. It’s already December, so chances are if you haven’t already scheduled an appointment at the marina, you’ll need to do the job yourself. Removing the water from the engine is a fairly simple task that you should be able to complete on your own.
Start by lowering the engine into the down position and then allow the water in the unit to drain away. Next, remove the drain plugs so the water can drain into the bilge. Newer drain plugs are made of plastic and can easily be turned by hand. Once the draining is complete, reattach the plugs, and then drain the bilge. While you’re winterizing your machine, make sure that you are stocked up on boat motor oil for next season.
Today we’re going to touch on proper transportation. This may seem like a no-brainer, but you would be surprised by the number of boat owners who cause damage to their outboard motors by not transporting them correctly. Driving with the outboard motor loaded to the transom is fine, but if the outboard is in the “up” position with an unsupported lower unit, every bump in the road is concentrated on the bolts of the fiberglass transom.
Now you may be thinking to yourself, “I always transport my motorboat the way you described. If I don’t, the motor will scrape the lake bottom when landing.” True, a tilt may be necessary, but there is no good reason to not right the motor once the boat has been loaded onto the trailer. Once the boat has been loaded, the motor lowered, and the hull cleaned, take the opportunity to check to see if the motor needs to be topped off with the best outboard motor oil.
I’ve only visited New Orleans once and it was as a volunteer to re-build homes in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Fishing wasn’t a top priority at that time. Though the city still hasn’t fully recovered, I’ve heard from friends in the area that the fishing has improved significantly.
Just like Field & Stream, my friends recommended City Park and Bayou Segnette. The Bayou is ideal for largemouth fish. The city and surrounding area are checkered with marshes, canals, and ponds begging to be explored. Next time I get an opportunity to go down there, I’ll bring my boat and some extra Amalie oil.
Picking up where we left off yesterday… attach the flush hose to the antifreeze container and flush the engine using the same techniques used with the water hose. Once that’s completed, spray fogging oil into the engine carburetor while the engine is running. After a little while, spray enough so the engine stops running. Repeat the cycle with the other engine.
Allow the engines to cool down and then remove the spark plugs. Spray fogging oil into the plugs, and then insert the desiccant plugs. Drain out any remaining water and pump antifreeze throughout via the bilge pump. Use ArmorAll or another cleaner to wipe down cushions and other surfaces, and then cover the boat with a breathable yet weather-resistant tarp. Over the winter you can place an order for Yamalube so you’ll be ready to go once warm weather rolls around.
Knowing how to winterize watercraft is part of being a responsible boat owner. Today and tomorrow we’re going to focus on how to winterize a Yamaha jet boat. To complete the winterization process, you will need: stabilizer fuel treatment, fogging oil, water hose, flush hose, antifreeze, desiccant plugs, and ArmorAll.
Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank of the jet boat prior to its last run of the season. After the outing is over, add another bottle of fuel stabilizer and fill the tank with fuel. Using the water hose, flush the engine for about 30 minutes. Make sure the engine is running when you flush the system, so as not to damage any cylinders. We’ll pick up here tomorrow. You can use the time between posts to make sure you have all the necessary materials, including plenty of Yamaha outboard oil.