The Mercury Trailer Boat at Rest

If your Mercury boat takes you into salt water, it is recommended that you park with the outdrive in the down position. This prevents barnacle formation on the bellows; if barnacles form, they can cut into the bellows and ultimately sink the boat. There have been many recent instances in the Midwest where beavers have eaten enough boat bellows to sink the craft and render it useless. If your Mercury outboard is stored in the sun with the outdrive down, it will also alleviate the effects of dry rot on the bellows.

Bellows should not have to be replaced more than once every five or six years, barring formation of a leak or hole. When performing preventative maintenance on the bellows, you may have more success with Mercury parts-they have a bellows kit-the Mercury shop manual, and/or Mercury’s Master-certified mechanics. There are special tools, a thread lock and a certain adhesive you will need for bellow replacement. Once all this is done and it’s time to go out on the water again, stock up on Mercury engine oil and happy boating!

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How to Change Your Outboard Motor Oil and Filter, Part 2

The oil filter will need to be changed every time the outboard motor oil is changed. Be sure and place a couple of rags or absorbent pads under the filter cap to collect potential oil or debris. Try to loosen the cap, using the appropriate wrench. You may have to clean the filter cap with an absorbent pad; if this doesn’t work, get a screwdriver and hammer and tap the screwdriver tip down into the cap, rotating the existing oil filter until it loosens enough to be removed.
Before you replace the old oil filter with a new one, dip your finger into the old oil and rub a bead of oil around the edge of the new oil filter’s gasket o-ring, which will ease the future removal of the new filter when it needs to be replaced with the next oil change. If you will be boating in a hot climate that stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, use 25W-40 motor oil; in a cooler climate, use a 10W-30. Screw the new oil filter into position. Tighten the new oil filter by hand, ensuring it is snug with an additional ¾ to 1 full turn. Once the oil filter is in place and the drain plug is secured tightly, remove the plug for the fill and add the new oil using a funnel. Check your manufacturer’s manual for specifications regarding the amount of oil to use. Finally, check your dipstick to make sure there is enough oil. For environmental purposes, please dispose of discarded outboard engine oil at an approved hazardous materials collection center. Happy boating!

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More About TC3-W Oil

Yesterday, I discussed the gradual phasing of TCW-2 into TCW-3 oil and answered a few questions about the use of the older oil, why and how it has evolved into TCW-3, etc. It was asked whether premixed TCW-3 oil could for other machines, such as chainsaws, motorcycles, and landscaping equipment without detriment. The “W” that is sometimes present in the name (there is also TC-3 oil) stands for “water-cooled” and is not necessary for an air-cooled engine. Another inquiry that arose was why TCW-3 oils sometimes showed color variations. The answer is that there are different suppliers who use different dyes, strictly for identification purposes, but the oils are formulated exactly the same.

Modern marine engine oil is carefully formulated for premium engine performance, environmental compatibility, and contains the additives now mandated by the federal government for clean, efficient and safe operation of your boat, as I discussed in yesterday’s blog. Many would recommend not cutting corners when it comes to oil, and I would agree with that assessment. Use the best within your budget, mixing it as directions dictate.

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TCW-2 Oil and Older Outboard Motors

Owner’s manuals for outboard motors made in 1992 or prior used to state that premium fuel was required for proper operation, because during that time, premium outboard motor fuel was manufactured containing additives that minimized the formation of deposits inside the engines. During those years, the best oil available was rated at TCW-2 and did not contain the detergents and carbon preservative ingredients that marine engine oil such as XD-30, XD-50, and XD-100 does today. The federal government ruled in the late 1990s that all grades of fuel were required to include identical additive ingredients, and the premium fuel requirement for outboard motors was discontinued.

If you still have some TC2-W outboard motor oil, it can still be used in a motor from 1992 or before. If you choose to use TC2-W oil in an older motor, Evinrude recommends addition of a product such as Carbon Guard to lessen carbon deposit formation. Be aware, however, that using TCW-2 oil in a motor that requires TCW-3 oil will void your warranty should any oil-related malfunction occur.

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What Is Oxygenated Fuel?

What is oxygenated fuel? Oxygenated fuel contains oxygen as part of its chemical makeup. The purpose of fuel oxygenation is often to reduce carbon monoxide levels created while the fuel burns. Usually oxygenates come in the form of gasoline additives, such as alcohol.

Some boaters are concerned with the possibility than an oxygenated fuel can harm their motor and interfere with the performance of their outboard motor oil. Outboard motors can generally tolerate up to 10% alcohol content in fuels, which is the maximum amount allowed by the United States.

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Got Evinrude Oil?

If it is a new motor, and it is attached to a new Evinrude boat (or a new-to-you boat), congratulations! You may have a question or two about the best care and feeding for this fine machine. For instance, if you are dealing with a two-stroke Evinrude motor, you may be wondering what kind of oil to use. Their suggestions are XD30, XD50 and XD100 oil for two-stroke motors that are 1993 and newer. When it comes to the grade of Evinrude outboard oil to use, 87 octane is the current minimum, but 89 octane is actually preferred. Use of higher-octane fuels have not proven to provide any additional benefit, and may actually exacerbate hard starting conditions in hot weather.

If you are wondering about the proper ratio of fuel to oil for optimal performance in your Evinrude motor, a breakdown given on the company website is as follows: 1958 and prior used 20 parts fuel to 1 part oil; 1959-1963 used 24 parts fuel to 1 part oil; 1964 and newer use 50 parts fuel to 1 part oil. High performance racing usage requires a ratio of 25 parts fuel to 1 part oil. Finally, when it comes to gearcase oil type and capacity, refer to your owner’s manual for specifications.

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Racing Outboard Motor Oil

Two cycle oil for high-performance racing motors needs to contain a heavier synthetic base than most to protect the pistons and bearing that are under more strain from the rigors of racing. High performance two cycle motors can include stock or modified motors, including snowmobiles, personal watercraft, Moto X motorcycles, ATVs, go-carts and certain outboard motors.

Performance motor oils need to reduce friction and burn clean, because high performance two cycle motors run hotter than recreational outboard motors. The properties of appropriate performance motor oil will also provide some protection against wearing of essential engine components.

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Two-Stroke vs. Four-Stroke Outboard Motors

When choosing between a two-stroke or four-stroke outboard motor for your boat, the features of each must be considered. Two-stroke outboard motors are lighter in weight, less expensive, and often faster. They are generally easier to repair and maintain, having a comparatively simple design that has been available for almost 80 years. Two-stroke outboard motors tend to hold their resale value, remaining in high demand in the used market. On the con side, a two-stroke outboard motor produces more pollution, smoke, are non-two cycle oil injection models, have a rougher idle than their four-stroke counterparts, and are sometimes harder to start.

Four-stroke outboard motors are cleaner, quieter, smoother, provide more fuel economy, and are often more reliable. They are preferred by some boaters who run in lakes and rivers because they are generally accepted at any body of water. They do not run on an oil and gas mixture or generate as much pollution. The negatives of four-stroke outboard motors include their high expense for purchase and repair and heavy bulk, which makes it complicated to transport or position in storage without the help of a stand. Because the design for a four-stroke outboard motor is more complicated than its two-stroke counterpart, there are more parts to malfunction. However, outboard motor production will be either four-stroke or very similar. The technology for the four-stroke outboard motor is always improving, and as time goes on, there is a higher percentage of qualified mechanics to perform any necessary repairs. The current used market is very limited for the four-stroke outboard motor, though this is also growing as technology and training improves.

*Note: this comparison does not include direct fuel-injected two-stroke models.

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How to Maintain an Outboard Motor

How to Maintain an Outboard Motor Just as it is important to maintain your car’s engine for optimum performance, your boat requires a certain amount of care for consistent and smooth operation. Since an outboard motor hangs outside the hull of a boat, it requires special attention to prolong its life. Caution when transporting your boat to the destination of your planned outing is extremely important. The motor and boat trailer should be braced securely so that the motion of land travel does not cause permanent damage.

Each time a boat is returned from a salt water excursion, the outboard motor should be flushed out with fresh water to prevent the pump and lines from corrosion. Outboard motor oil and gas lines should be drained and disconnected before storing your boat for an extended period of time to keep the carburetor clean. The area around the propeller and gears of the motor should be checked for cleanliness and excess water accumulation. The pump inside the motor should also be checked to ensure the impellers do not look worn. If all of these steps are taken regularly, your outboard motor should provide its best possible performance.

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Boat Motor Oil Viscosity

The viscosity of boat motor oil is one of its most important properties, as it measures how any given oil will flow. Thicker oils will generally have a higher viscosity than thinner oils. The viscosity of boat motor oil is essential for productive engine operation.

The numbers and letters on boat motor oil packaging refer to measurements that have been taken at specific temperatures. A “W” means the oil meets viscosity specifications for winter use. Multi-viscosity boat motor oils prevent the oil from thinning as it warms up because polymers have been added to prevent the oil from thinning. It is wise to use multi-viscosity boat motor oil with the narrowest span of viscosity for the temperatures you will encounter-in the winter, for the lowest expected temperature, and for the summer, for the highest temperature anticipated.

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Cleaning Your Boat

Cleaning Your Boat In addition to a good upkeep on your engine (such as regularly changing your marine engine oil), you also need to make sure your boat itself is clean. It may seem like a superficial process, but if you take care of your boat, it will take care of you.

Some cleaners on the market can actually damage the sealant on your boat. The phosphorous contained in many cleaning products is difficult to rinse from a surface. That residue builds up eventually causing the sealant to soften, which then results in oxidation. Strong cleaners can do the same thing. Use these products to clean your motors or when removing oil or heavy residue. Go sparingly then rinse immediately.

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Replacing and Repairing Your Propeller

Your boat propeller works by changing the engine’s power into a thrusting that moves your boat forward. Knowing how to do basic propeller repair and maintenance tasks can go a long way in helping you take proper care of your boat without spending excessive repair technicians’ costs. Ignoring the problem will cause more problems, not unlike not regularly changing your outboard motor oil. Here are some quick tips to maintain your propeller:

Check the blades on your propeller for nicks or bent parts. These are all signs of propeller wear that typically signal time for a propeller replacement. Any problems with your propeller blades can hinder the job they do for you and can hurt the engine. If your propeller has worn blades, your engine can be damaged further by improper acceleration.
Mold any dings out of your propeller. If your prop is just a bit dinged up after a tough sail or impact with an underwater obstruction, it is possible to simply reshape it a bit. It is best to make a mold of the original prop in new condition where the blades are still at their original angle, and then use this mold as a guide when reshaping your prop after impact.
Make sure your hub is not slipping. If the propeller hub is the problem, your boat won’t move at all even when you hit the gas. To fix this problem, remove the propeller, and mark the end of the propeller housing and the hub and keep the marks in line with one another. Install a new propeller to see if that fixes the problem. If the marks are out of line, your hub is slipping.
Balance your propeller. This can usually only be done by a certified technician, but making sure your propeller is properly balanced ensures that it runs free of any troublesome or even dangerous vibrations.

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Motor Maintenance | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 5