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Archive for the ‘Motor Maintenance’ Category
For the most part, a water pump will last the lifetime of the motor itself; however, if you do hear whirring or grinding noises, it may be time to replace the water pump. Replacing a busted water pump is not too difficult for the average handy-man or woman. You will need a set of wrenches, a socket wrench set, new water pump, a water pump gasket, gasket sealer, and possibly new hose clamps. While you’re gathering supplies, you may also want to pick up some Yamalube 2-M oil.
Begin by locating the petcock valves on either side of the engine block. Open up a valve or two to drain out the water. Locate and loosen the bolts on the belt pulleys and then remove the belt. The hose clamps should also be visible; remove any water that may still be lingering in the hose connecting to the damaged water pump.
The float valve is an essential component of any outboard engine because it controls the level of fuel present in a carburetor’s float bowl. If the levels are incorrect, the engine may flood out or starve for fuel. Repairing and adjusting a is fairly simple.
Start by turning the carburetor float bowl upside down, so the float hangs free. Using a six-inch machinist’s ruler, check to see if the float is correctly set. If not, bend the small metal tab between the hinge and body of the float, so that is lies at the correct level. Don’t forget to check the levels of Yamaha oil when you’re done tinkering with the float bowl!
To , you will need pre-wired paper tags, an oil storage container, and duct tape. Start by locating the oil inlet line that runs from the oil tank to the oil pump. Tag the line.
Pull out the oil inlet line by hand from the pump and cap it with your thumb. Drain the mercury outboard oil into a storage container. Use duct tape to cap the line. Tag the oil outlet line which runs from the pump to the fuel system. Pull the line from the pump, and then cap the line with duct tape to prevent contamination.
Shrink wrapping your boat helps protect it during the cold winter months. All you need is a boat shrink wrap kit, a heat gun, and a ladder (depending on the size of your boat). Most of these items can be ordered online or purchased at a boating supplies store.
Take care of the engine, mercury oil, and other necessities on the boat and position the vehicle where you want it to stay for the season. Pad sharp corners that could potentially puncture the shrink wrap. Put up support poles for the shrink wrap to adhere to, and then unroll the shrink wrap over the boat. Use the heat gun to tighten and seal the shrink wrap. Check your work for any holes, patch up those holes you find, and finally install self adhesive vents to keep mold from forming under the wrap.
As much as I love being out on the water, I don’t like it when the water comes into my boat. More often then not, water in the boat is caused by a damaged floor. Fortunately, a few simple steps are all that’s needed to restore a boat floor.
Start by sanding the damaged area with a 60 grit sandpaper, and then increase to 80 grit. Apply wood filler liberally to the sanded area. Once the filler has dried, sand the area until it is flush with the rest of the floor. Apply waterproof sealer and then varnish to finish the job. When you’re out purchasing floor repair supplies, take a moment to stock up on amalie oil.
It’s important to inspect your boat every time you plan on taking it out on the water. You don’t want any surprises to crop up when you’re far from shore. One thing you should do is check the hydraulics and trim. Check specifically for power trim and tilt fluid; it should be even with the bottom of the plug.
Of course, checking engine compression is a must (check yesterday’s post for a how-to). Next, do a visual inspection for leaks – water, oil, or exhaust. If all is well, check the oil to make sure it is both clean and at the proper level. If the oil is low, refill the tank with Yamalube 2m oil.
For any engine, having the right maintenance tools is a necessity. Yamaha has several specific tools that will keep outboards running in tip top condition. Take for instance, the Yamaha 10-micron fuel and water separating filter. The filter can be used for around 100 hours before needing replacement. The filter is critical to winterization setup.
A multimeter is another important tool to have in your arsenal. It is a device that is used to check electrical connections onboard and identifies problem areas. Though not strictly a tool, lubrication is vital to the function of a Yamaha outboard. Yamaha 4M oil is advisable for four stroke engines, and Yamaha 2M oil is advisable for two stroke engines.
The Evinrude E-Tec outboard motor enjoys popularity because of its low maintenance. The fact that it can run for 300 hours without inspections or adjustments doesn’t hurt its reputation either. Still, even the best outboard motors can run into problems, so it’s important to know how to trouble shoot.
If a problem does arise, look first for blown fuses. A spare 10 amp fuse is provided by the manufacturer so you shouldn’t have to spend a lot to replace a blown fuse. Next, check the water intake screens and also check for kinked fuel hoses. Finally, check for debris in the Evinrude E-Tec. Gunk won’t allow the propeller to turn properly.
Yesterday, we left off with checking and fixing ignition wiring. Once you’re confident that there are no lingering wiring problems, turn the engine on and listen for the engine turning over, and failing that, clicking. Turn off the engine and locate the starter mechanism or solenoid if there isn’t an engine starter.
Tap the starter or solenoid with a screwdriver handle, and then try the ignition again. Next, pull the spark plug cap off and use a socket wrench to pull out the spark plug. If the spark plug is covered in gunk, replace the old spark plug, and add in new synthetic 2 stroke outboard oil. Finally check the fuel tank, vent, and fuel line for leaks.
When it comes to keeping your watercraft in working order, there is a long maintenance check list. Today we’ll focus on two parts of that list: power trim and tilt fluid, and lubricants. Be sure to regularly inspect the lower unit to highlight issues. To prevent such issues from arising, keep the prop shaft well lubricated and top up levels of trim fluids. Yamaha products, like Performance Power, are preferable.
As far as lubricants, Yamalube 2-m oil or 4-m oil is recommended for two-stroke and fours-stroke engines, respectively. It is imperative that all replaced or repaired components be bedded correctly, and then sealed and protected with lubricant. Lubricating parts also aids in motion and can extend the life of an engine.