Archive for the ‘Motor Maintenance’ Category
Yesterday we reviewed the importance of performing routine ATV maintenance, such as checking the outboard motor oil and performing minor tune-ups. One relatively simple task that most people can do on their own is valve adjustments. (Refer to yesterday’s post for a complete list of all of the tools that you will need.) The first step is to remove the rear fender seat assembly and unhook the negative connection of the battery to prevent accidental starting. Next, remove the front plastic and fenders-also be sure to disconnect the wiring for the headlights and ignition.
The last thing that needs to be removed is the fuel tank. After turning off the fuel valve and disconnecting the fuel line, remove the fuel tank heat protector. During this process, be sure to note where the connection points, as well as the placement of all of the parts that you remove. Now that all of the covering and fuel lines have been disconnected, it is time to adjust the valves-but that will have to wait until tomorrow.
When you go to a boat auction it is a good idea to do a boat inspection to make sure that you know what you are bidding on. Here is a list of things to look for:
Quick walk-around – walk around the boat and check the hull, pay particular attention to the stem, chines and strakes. If there has been a collision you will see cracks there.
Shake the I/O – if you shake the I/O and it has alot of play then it might need gimbal bearings. Also check around the seals and gaskets for leaks.
Check the dipstick – check to see if the dipstick smells burned or looks milky. I could be the wrong viscosity or was never changed.
Check the wiring – bare wire and terminators that are twisted together or sealed with electrical tape are bad.
Test the fuel and oil – The gasoline sold today is 10% ethanol. This attrackts moisture which separates in the fuel tank. Water in the engine or boat motor oil is bad news. This can lead to a cracked block.
You could purchase the world’s toughest boats, but it doesn’t mean that you can get away without taking care of it. To keep your vessel sea worthy, you have to put a little bit of elbow grease and care into your boat. Here are some easy tips:
Cleaning & Care
Wash your boat regularly. Not only does routine cleaning facilitate a more pleasant and organized environment, but it also goes a long way towards counteracting the long-term effects of environmental wear and tear. Waxing and use of anti-fouling paint can also help protect your boat from the elements.
Checklists
Keep a checklist that includes everything from boat motor maintenance and winterization to boat trailer maintenance. You also want to be sure to check your fluid levels on a regular basis, and be sure that you have a good amount of Yamaha 2W oil.
Proper Mooring
One of the most common ways a boat can start to show scratches and damage is not only from when it’s in use, but from when it’s being docked. Make sure lines are securely fastened in place, neatly coiled and do not show signs of breakage.
Battery Care
Depending on the type of battery your boat uses, check to ensure that it is properly charged and that it has the correct fluid levels. Also be sure to keep your battery clean, as dampness and dirt can also drain your battery.
Electrical Components
Many boating failures occur as a result of corroded electrical systems, so keeping electrical components dry should be a regular part of your boat maintenance routine.
Consider a Boat Cover
Making an investment in a boat cover can help keep your boat clean and free of a variety of contaminants that aren’t just related to dirt or water, falling leaves and bird droppings can also cause a lot of damage if left unchecked.
This past week, we’ve looked at virtually every facet of an annual outboard tune-up, from inspecting the propeller blades to scanning for oil leaks and replacing the fuel filter. In today’s final installment of our five-part series, we’ll finally get to enjoy the fruits of all that labor. In other words, it’s time to hit the water. After adding wax to the cowling in order to protect from corrosion, you’re all set to mount the outboard and take it to a lake or river.
Once the motor has been mounted, it’s time to start the engine. Unfortunately, there are a few more checks to be performed before we can use the boat for recreational endeavors with any confidence. We’ve already replenished the motor with fresh outboard oil, but we have not yet checked the water pump. The flow of water near the rear of the engine should give us a good idea that the pump is functioning properly.
Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes while it warms up. Adjust the carburetor jet and twiddle the fuel-mix knob at the front of the motor. It should begin to idle smoothly. Then put it into gear and take a quick spin. This maintenance procedure should keep your outboard motor running smoothly and trouble-free for the remainder of the season.
In order to keep your marine motor running smoothly and efficiently, it’s essential to perform a full-scale tune up at least once a year. This guide to annual tune ups is not intended to be an absolute authority on how to do your maintenance work but rather as a series of suggestions. As previously discussed, each individual outboard comes with a specialized maintenance schedule courtesy of the manufacturer. Adhere to that schedule first and foremost.
Just as you would with your daily or weekly maintenance routine, begin this one with a visual inspection – and not just a simple once-over, either. By scoping out potential motor issues and stumbling blocks ahead of time, you ensure that repairs can be made in a timely manner. Turn the motor off before commencing the inspection. Then remove the cowling so that the power head is visible.
Scanning from the propeller upward, check the motor’s vicinity for signs of leakage. If your boat has been in storage for any significant period of time, it’s possible that a leak exists without any visual clues; for example, the leaking fluids may have drained out of the motor and evaporated over that extended time. Remember that a bit of oil around the propeller and on the side of the gear housing is normal. Anything more than that – e.g. a large, dark slick of Evinrude oil running down the propeller, it could be time to consult a professional mechanic.
We’ll continue our visual inspection and begin to get our hands dirty in the next installment.
By now you’re probably familiar with the big three names in outboard motors: Evinrude, Yamaha and Mercury. In recent years, the Environmental Protection Agency has tightened its restrictions on engine efficiency and marine pollution. This just makes sense as the American public becomes more sensitive to ecological issues and biofuels are made a viable alternative to fossil fuels in automobiles.
Unfortunately, with all of the technological and environmental upgrades made to outboards in the last year or so, it’s easy for boat owners to get complacent with their routine maintenance. For whatever reason, people believe these admittedly formidable machines can take care of themselves. Of course those beliefs are shattered the second something goes wrong on the mechanical end.
As always, the first step is to consult the owner’s manual for maintenance tips that are specific to each outboard model. Generally speaking, though, boat owners should adhere rigidly to the engine’s maintenance schedule. This schedule dictates when various services should be performed after however many hours of use. Some matters of routine upkeep – such as replenishing the engine with Evinrude outboard oil – are universal and should be done without fail. Other maintenance procedures should be completed according to the outboard’s age and the extent it’s used each year.
During the course of a typical fishing or cruising excursion, outboard motors collect sand and other debris from the surrounding water. In the unfortunate event that a boat runs aground, that amount of detritus increases exponentially. It doesn’t take a genius or a master mechanic to figure out that dirt and grime don’t mix with internal engine parts. Obviously something needs to be done to clean out the engine – but what?
The answer lies in yet another essential piece of routine maintenance: the freshwater flush. While most Yamahas and other top-of-the-line 2 strokes feature a built-in freshwater flushing device fitting, some engines will require a pair of “rabbit ears.” These invaluable tools are so named because the two rubber seals are connected with a metal clamp. To use the Yamaha fitting, just connect a normal hose to the lower cowling.
It’s a common misconception that freshwater flushes should only be performed after a ride in salt water. While you might want to flush the engine more frequently in the case of saltwater boating, the process is important no matter what. In fact, along with other common maintenance procedures such as replenishing the engine’s supply of Yamaha 2m oil, flushing can add years of functional life to your outboard.
In a perfect world, we’d all take advantage of these warm summer days by taking the boat out on the lake – to fish or maybe just relax. In reality, however, hectic work schedules and the drudgery of the daily grind have a tendency to get in the way of a boat enthusiast’s true passion. There’s nothing worse than returning to your craft after weeks or months away and finding that the engine won’t start.
Don’t worry, you aren’t being punished by the boating gods for spending too much time on land. It’s just that an outboard motor’s fuel system can become clogged from underuse. As a result, you might need to siphon any excess water or solids out of the fuel tank and hosing. There are two simple ways to keep this situation from ruining your day: run your engine regularly and perform routine maintenance checks.
First, make sure that your supply of Yamalube 2m oil is topped off. Then study the area near the propeller for excess oil residue. If you notice significant buildup, it could mean a problem with the lower gear case. Finally, investigate the fuel system for leaks. Once these daily checks are performed, you can feel confident that your outboard motor is in tip-top shape.
In most parts of America, small boat owners should expect to get a few more good months out of their vessels before it’s time to look into winter storage options. And of course there are those who live in temperate climates where one can enjoy boating all year round. For those who need to close down shop for the winter, however, there are a number of crucial maintenance measures that need to be put into place.
Assuming that the boat’s outboard motor has been kept in tip-top shape with Evinrude XD100 oil or some similar product, the following steps should be simple and painless. The first point to address is condensation that can build up in fuel lines during the winter. In order to prevent this from occurring, fill the gas tank completely and add a fuel stabilizer. Then start the motor and allow it to run for a few minutes so that the fuel and stabilizer can filter through the system.
Next, you’ll need to apply fogging oil to the carburetor. Just before the boat is put into storage, spray the fogging oil into the cylinders. Take the opportunity to scour the housing and then apply anti-corrosion spray to the electrical wires and connections. Once this is done you can focus on traditional methods of cleaning – spraying your boat down and waxing the exterior if desired. Don’t forget to disconnect the battery as well. If you don’t recharge it every month or so during the winter you’ll need a new battery by springtime.
When storing a WaveRunner for the off-season, it’s important to ensure that all the mechanical work is done beforehand. It’s a good idea to service the vehicle before it is stored (if the WaveRunner is due for its scheduled maintenance). It’s also essential to change the oil and filter before storage, as used oil can corrode the engine. Be sure to use Yamalube 2W oil in the engine, as this is the premium oil from Yamaha that is 100% safe and recommended for all WaveRunners. While changing the oil and filter, also top off essential fluids for the brakes, clutch, and hydraulics. For maximum security, replace all the essential fluids with a fresh supply to prevent corrosion and rust. Make sure to add stabilizers to all the fluids to prevent deterioration. Drain the cooling system and replace it with fresh coolant. It’s also a good idea to run the engine once to ensure the stabilizers work their way into the engine.
Taking these steps will ensure the WaveRunner is ready for use, and also preserve it for the future. Don’t forget to store the WaveRunner in a cool and dry place where it will be away from insects and other pests that could cause damage while the vehicle is unattended.