Using epoxy fillers, toothpicks, sandpaper, sealant, touch up paint, and polyurethane clear coat, I can fix just about any scratch. It is very time consuming to apply and let the different fillers dry, and then sand them down and paint, but the results are completely worth it. I do need to go to the store to pick up some matching paint, so I suppose while I’m there I’ll also purchase some WaveRunner oil.

I’ve recently been researching inflatable boats to use as ship-to-shore tenders. A top priority for me is ease of transport rather than speed. For that reason, a soft bottom roll-up inflatable boat was recommended to me.

It is supposedly compact and lightweight. No special equipment or trailers are needed; in fact, the whole boat rolls up into a bag that holds everything needed. The particular boat I’m looking at, by Mercury Marine, seats three people, has slat floorboards for stability, and an ABS-coated transom. A two stroke engine that takes Marine engine oil can be attached to the rear of the boat to easily take me out to where my larger boat is docked.

Begin by removing the brass screws on the side of the fuel bowl with a flat screwdriver. Drain the fuel from the carburetor and use a shop rag to absorb the excess. Using a number two Phillips screwdriver, remove the four fuel bowl screws and lift the bowl up and off the carburetor body. Take your jet driver and remove the main jet and pilot jet, taking care not to damage the brass jets.

Boats have a closed loop cooling system, unlike automobiles. Boats, obviously, are subject to water corrosion and buildup. For those reasons, marine engine oil, with its high anti-corrosion properties, is better suited for boats than regular engine oil used on cars.

To elaborate, boats, unlike cars, have a closed loop cooling system. Water causes corrosion, not to mention running a boat for an extensive amount of time can cause water and fuel build-up. That’s why marine engine oil, unlike automobile oil, has higher anti-corrosion properties

As far as lubricants, Yamalube 2-m oil or 4-m oil is recommended for two-stroke and fours-stroke engines, respectively. It is imperative that all replaced or repaired components be bedded correctly, and then sealed and protected with lubricant. Lubricating parts also aids in motion and can extend the life of an engine.

Outboard engines operate at constant speeds. Two-stroke outboard engines also operate in water, meaning they have a constant supply of coolant which is not re-circulated. Air-cooled engines, on the other hand, are used in spurts; turned on and off or left idling. These engines typically have smaller displacements than outboard engines, and are frequently overloaded. For , Mercury 2 stroke oil is recommended.

Start by removing all of the spark plugs from the motor and ground those spark plugs against the engine case. Take a compression tester and screw it into the spark plug hole of the first cylinder to be tested. Twist the throttle and kick the motor over a few times. Check the tester’s gauge; if the gauge reads at least 100-125 then you’re good to go, at least on that particular cylinder. While you’re poking around the insides of your motor, consider replacing your Mercury 2 cycle oil.

Inertial cavitation occurs when bubbles within the fluid form and collapse in rapid succession. The sudden collapse creates a shock wave which happens frequently in pumps, propellers, control valves, and impellers. The shock waves cause damage to the mechanism and working parts. It’s important to conduct preventative maintenance, like replacing the water pump impeller every 1-2 years and using the right outboard motor oil.

Many of the grooves and spaces in-between the fittings on the engine leave microscopic openings in the system where pressure normally would be able to escape. However, the oil works its way into these gaps and creates a seal, effectively improving the engine’s efficiency. Additives in the oil now help reduce foam, allowing the oil to function to its full capabilities.