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Archive for the ‘bulk oil’ Category
Although the workings of the two-stroke engine are more basic than the four-stroke, they are by no means simplistic. The cycle begins when the spark plug fires, igniting the fuel, air and bulk oil that have been compressed in the cylinder. This explosion, also known as the combustion stroke, drives the piston downward, which compresses the rests of the gas, air, oil concoction in the crankcase.
At the bottom of the stroke, the exhaust port is uncovered, releasing the pressure of the exhaust gases. When the piston bottoms out, the port to the intake is covered. At this point, the mixture in the crankcase is pressurized, causing it to flow into the cylinder while at the same time extricating the exhaust gases. Tune in tomorrow for the thrilling conclusion of the two-stroke cycle.
Four-stroke engines are ubiquitous in automobile manufacturing and while you may consider the two-stroke engine an antiquated instrument, it still has myriad uses. From yard tools and dirt bikes to RC toys and outboard motors, the two-stroke engine is still utilized in many smaller vehicles and implements. Before we start to overview the inner workings of the two-stroke engine, let’s highlight a few of its main advantages over its four-stroke counterpart:
~Simple construction: the absence of valves lowers the unit’s weight and minimizes the opportunity for breakdowns.
~More power: since two-stroke engines for every revolution, as opposed to every other revolution, they can generate more power than a four-stroke engine.
~Work in any direction: if you try to operate a four-stroke engine upside-down or sideways, you may encounter problems with oil flow. The gasoline and outboard motor oil are combined in a two-stroke engine, eliminating this problem.
As much as I love boating, ATVing takes up just as much of time during the summer. A few years ago my sons and I built a dirt track in a backyard—it’s more like a three-acre lot. We have four ATVs now, and there’s no way that I can handle all of the maintenance myself. So for the last couple of years, I’ve been educating my boys on the basic of ATV mechanics.
During the season you should inspect the vehicle regularly to ensure it’s safe to ride. Once a month, examine the brakes, carb, air cleaner, spark plugs and all of the nuts and bolts. Things like the fuel line and suspesnsion only need to be checked out once a year. And, of course, we can’t forget about the oil; I recommend changing the Yamalube 2S oil and the filter when you put your boat into storage, as the old oil will go bad when it sits idle.
Yesterday we discussed why using premium oil is so important for boaters, but what I failed to mention was that most premium bulk oil on the market today is synthetic. And while we may think that synthetics are relatively new, their origins date back many decades. During the 1930s and 1940s, Dr. Hermann Zorn began to research new engine lubricant which wouldn’t coagulate or become sticky like the oils of his day. His research led him to the conclusion that esters held the answer. At the same time as Zorn’s research, the US was in the process of synthesizing esters for use in oils.
Synthetic oils were first used in WWII by both Germany and the United States. It wasn’t until the 1960s however until Chevron released the first synthetic for commercial use. The quality of synthetics has continually improved, with new esters and methods constantly being utilized. Today, synthetic oils are the gold standard of the industry.
The engine is unequivocally the most important component of your boat, and as such, it requires a thorough examination. We’ll begin with inboard engines, as the process is more in-depth. Start by changing the bulk motor oil and both the fuel and oil filters. Also ensure that the coolant and transmission fluid are topped off. Even if you’ve just replenished all of your engine fluids, always keep extra onboard. Finish by inspecting the entire system for cracks, rust, blockage and any other signs of corrosion.
Maintenance for outboard motors is more straightforward. Replace the spark plugs and check the wiring for any damage. Lubricate all of the moveable engine components and make certain the gear lube is adequate. When you are finished working on the engine, ensure that the fuel shutoff valve and hoses are intact. Now that you have inspected your boat and done some basic maintenance, you’re ready to hit the water.
Despite efforts to safeguard shipping and transportation of oil, instances of oil spills and environmental trouble stemming from the mishandling of shipments are still all too common. A few days ago, a Chinese ship carrying bulk oil hit the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, causing damage along two miles of the natural wonder. The magnitude of the disaster was amplified when it was discovered that part of the damage occurred in a natural sanctuary, where young seabirds and turtles are expected to hatch soon.
Cleanup crews have already begun a concerted effort to minimize the damage, but experts predict that it will take 20 years for the Reef to repair all of the damage. After crashing aground, tides carried the boat along the reef, increasing the extent of the damage. The incident is currently under investigation by Australian authorities, but the ship’s owner is adamant that there was no illegal activity and that the incident was the result of a careless mistake.
Just as the main jet controls the flow of fuel and bulk motor oil when the throttle is open, the needle and needle jet take over when the throttle is anywhere from one-eighth to three-quarters open. Since your engine is operating in this range the majority of the time, this carb circuit generally gets the most use. When making adjustments, the needle itself rarely needs any tuning.
As the throttle opens, the needle is pulled up. This allows an increased flow of fuel and oil. If need be, you can make minor adjustments using the clip that is on the needle; raising the clip will make the mixture leaner, and vice-versa. Tomorrow we will go over the final circuit of the carburetor, the pilot jet and pilot screw.
When my wife and I retired, we knew that simply sitting around and growing old wouldn’t be enough to keep us satisfied. After working at a desk job for 47 years, I wanted to live near the water and have the freedom to be outside and interact with people. Following much deliberation, we decided to move to Tahoe and start our own watercraft rental service.
We’ve been at it for three years now, and I love every minute of it. I handle the business side of things, like accounting and ordering bulk motor oil and other supplies, while my wife focuses on the customers and day-to-day operations. Admittedly, it is hard work, but I don’t mind since I get to relax on a boat of jet ski whenever I like.
For most fishermen and fans of recreational water sports, a boat represents one of the most serious investments in one’s life. It generally comes down to a house, a car, and then a boat – in that order. So, assuming your boat is the third biggest financial investment in your life, doesn’t it deserve the sort of time and energy you put into your other prized possessions? After all, your home might be remodeled, repainted or at least cleaned each spring. And you wouldn’t think of driving your car much more than 3,000 miles without an oil change, would you?
While there aren’t universal rules about adding bulk outboard motor oil to the boat engine, it’s up to you to consult your owner’s manual for guidelines. When boating season begins, it’s best to take your winterized boat to a professional mechanic. After that, you should be able to handle post-trip routine maintenance. It’s important to always flush out the engine – whether you’re boating in salt water or fresh.
The only tools necessary for this task are a garden hose and a set of rabbit ears, or seals that slip into the lower unit of the engine. Take this opportunity to check the stream of water as it flows out of the pump. If it’s hot, there could be some debris jammed inside. This will end up taxing the engine too much, so it’s best to shut things down and root around inside the tubing for the source of blockage. After that, disconnect the fuel line and burn all the fuel in the carburetor.
When we left off yesterday, we were right in the middle of a visual inspection of the outboard motor – the sort of examination that should be performed every time you undertake the annual tune-up process. Now that we’ve established that no fluids have obviously leaked from the motor to the ground, it’s time to take a close look at the propeller. Small cracks or nicks in the tip of the blades can decrease efficiency, as can misaligned or bent blades.
Again, I’d ask you to defer to your owner’s manual at this point. Seek out the seasonal tune-up recommendations and find out whether or not you should be changing lubricant in the motor’s lower unit. If recommended, remove the top and bottom fill plugs and watch carefully as the lubricant drains into a spare waste container. Just as you replaced your old motor oil with bulk oil, substitute in new lubricant.
The lubricant applicator’s nozzle should fit nicely in the bottom fill hole; squirt it into the gear case. Then, just as it starts to overflow and ooze out of the top fill hole, return the top plug to its accustomed place. Do the same with the bottom plug and wipe away any extraneous lubricant with a cloth. We’ll continue with necessary lubrication in tomorrow’s edition.