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Archive for the ‘2 Stroke Oil’ Category
After you’ve flushed the system, use a pickup hose to pump some antifreeze through the manifold. This will require you to gain access to the engine room, and while you’re there you’ll want to change the transmission fluid as well. Take out each of the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil into each cylinder. Finally, wipe down the entire engine with some fogging oil, WD-40 or other lubricant.
Stern drives have a tendency to pick up barnacles and aquatic flora during the season, so you’ll want to remove any of these growths from the lower unit. Drain all of the fluid from the gear case and be sure there isn’t any excess moisture in the two cycle oil, which is an indication that your seals are leaking. Thoroughly clean the lower unit with soap and water, apply grease to the system and check all of the necessary fuel levels.
Every boat—at least the ones manufactured after 1972—comes with a distinct Hull Identification Number (HIN) which is etched onto the transom. The HIN, which is a series of 12 letters and numbers, gives your boat a unique identity that can be used in the event of theft or a manufacturer recall. Many states require a registration number, which is not the same the State Registration number.
The HIN format changed in 1984, so we’ll cover the most up-to-date criteria. The first three characters specify the manufacturer; the next five are the hull serial number; followed by the date of certification; and the final two numbers are the model year. It’s important to keep your HIN in a safe location so you have it in the event of an emergency. You should always have emergency products and information like life jackets and extra outboard motor oil.
Yesterday we covered some of the main advantages of the two-stroke engine, namely the fact that it is lightweight, uncomplicated and inexpensive. But two-stroke engines aren’t without their drawbacks, which will become apparent as we go through their cycle.
Like all internal combustion engines, two-stroke units operate on the simple principle of igniting fuel (in this case a mix of gasoline and Evinrude XD100) that releases energy and creates some sort of motion. The spark plug in a two-stroke engine fires every cycle, delivering consistent energy to the piston. Many of the components in the two-stroke engine serve multiple purposes, which allows the units to have a lightweight, compact construction.
As much as I love boating, ATVing takes up just as much of time during the summer. A few years ago my sons and I built a dirt track in a backyard—it’s more like a three-acre lot. We have four ATVs now, and there’s no way that I can handle all of the maintenance myself. So for the last couple of years, I’ve been educating my boys on the basic of ATV mechanics.
During the season you should inspect the vehicle regularly to ensure it’s safe to ride. Once a month, examine the brakes, carb, air cleaner, spark plugs and all of the nuts and bolts. Things like the fuel line and suspesnsion only need to be checked out once a year. And, of course, we can’t forget about the oil; I recommend changing the Yamalube 2S oil and the filter when you put your boat into storage, as the old oil will go bad when it sits idle.
Two-stroke engines are more powerful and compact than the four-stroke, which is why they are found on the back of so many boats. But some boats do have four-stroke engines. When you purchase outboard motor oil, you’ll notice that there is both two- and four-stroke oil, but is there really any difference? As we all know, one of the biggest differences between the two types of motors is how you put oil in the system. In a two-stroke motor the gas and oil are mixed, while in a four-stroke the oil is contained in a separate compartment.
Two-stroke oil costs more, but is it really worth the extra money. The simple answer is yes. And the reason is that two-stroke motors are more susceptible to wear because of the immense amount of power they generate in half the movements. Two-stroke oils have higher ratings to ensure your engine gets the protection it need.
Yesterday we discussed why using premium oil is so important for boaters, but what I failed to mention was that most premium bulk oil on the market today is synthetic. And while we may think that synthetics are relatively new, their origins date back many decades. During the 1930s and 1940s, Dr. Hermann Zorn began to research new engine lubricant which wouldn’t coagulate or become sticky like the oils of his day. His research led him to the conclusion that esters held the answer. At the same time as Zorn’s research, the US was in the process of synthesizing esters for use in oils.
Synthetic oils were first used in WWII by both Germany and the United States. It wasn’t until the 1960s however until Chevron released the first synthetic for commercial use. The quality of synthetics has continually improved, with new esters and methods constantly being utilized. Today, synthetic oils are the gold standard of the industry.
One way or another, the skier is eventually going to go down, and the proper steps must be taken to ensure their safety. As soon as the skier lets go of the towrope, immediately grab your safety flag—which should be stowed away with your extra outboard motor oil and other supplies. The flag alerts other boaters to the person in the water. Quickly circle back around and come back to the skier.
You should always pass the skier on the driver’s side of the vessel, which allows you to talk and keep them in constant eye contact. If the skier wants to go another round, bring the boat around to the right, which will draw the towrope up next to the skier. If, on the other hand, they’ve had enough, simply pull forward to give them access to the step. In our final installment tomorrow, we’ll cover some basic tips and precautions to ensure safe skiing.
When you neglect to bring extra gas and supplies with you on a road trip, the consequences are minimal—perhaps you’ll have to phone in for a tow truck or get a ride to the closest town. But when you forget to pack the proper supplies on a boat outing it can sometimes be difficult to garner immediate assistance. To avoid incident on the water, here are a few essential supplies to always keep on hand:
~First aid kit
~Emergency Radio
~Extra food and water
~Gasoline and outboard motor oil
~A set of tools
~Extra parts, such as prop fins and fasteners
If you only take your boat out once in a blue moon, you probably don’t care too much about which types of motor oil you choose—and you probably wouldn’t have stumbled upon this blog post either. Avid boaters know the importance of choosing top tier outboard motor oil. But with literally dozens of choices on store shelves, how do you know which one is right for you?
The most important thing to look for is , which ensures the oil meets a set of rigorous standards set forth by the NMAA. Most manufacturers offer at least one oil that meets TC-W3 standards; the main difference across brands is the additives. Personally, I like to follow the logic that the manufacturer knows their engine best, so they should also be able to create the best oil for it. When it boils down to it though, as long as your oil is TC-W3 certified, you’re in the clear.
Now that the engine has been flushed, you can turn off the engine and turn your attention to the fuel aspect of engine maintenance. Never use fuel that is over two months old, which means you must refrain from using the same fuel from last season. Start by inspecting the fuel lines and primer bulb for cracks and other signs of wear. Ensure all of the fuel line fittings are secure and there is no rust on the fuel tanks or the clamps.
Open the engine cover and check to see if there is any leakage. Lubricate all of the moving parts in the engine, including the shift and carb valves. And if your have a four-stroke engine, don’t forget to change your Yamalube 2S oil.