Archive for the ‘2 Cycle Oil’ Category
Now that we have gone over the two cycle oil and gasoline specifications, as well as the benefits of the outboard motor, it is time to determine which model is right for you. The motor that you choose will be largely dependent on the hull of the craft that you plan to attach it to. Every boat built in the US has a “Guard Rating Plate”; this shows the maximum horsepower for the motor, but you should also be sure never to go below 75 percent of this number.
The other main spec to take into consideration is the shaft length. On outboard motors, this measurement is customized to fit 15, 20 or 25-inch transoms (the stern of the watercraft). When the shaft length is too long, there will be drag, while if the shaft is too short, it could lead to ventilation or potentially the overheating of the engine.
The first thing to do when storing your sled is to wash and wax every inch. While this may seem like an unnecessary and purely aesthetic routine, this will help protect the paint job and the body of the vehicle. Once this is done, give the sled a quick onceover to find any chips or cracks, and it is advisable to paint the ski bottoms as well.
Now that the body is done, it is time to move on to the engine. Start up your snowmobile and pull on the oil pump cable to allow your 2 cycle oil to circulate through the entire system. Next, you want to fill the fuel tank completely, which will eliminate air space in the tank and ensure that condensation can’t form.

The urge to push boundaries and explore terrain is as distinctly American as baseball and apple pie. For all-terrain vehicle enthusiasts, the “road” is merely a restriction that’s meant to be ignored. Modern ATV riders are our version of trailblazers, creating new paths wherever they ride. The thrill and sense of danger associated with ATVs makes them especially popular among the younger generation.
But even thrill seekers require some modicum of safety. ATV accessories such as roll cages and cap enclosures offer critical benefits in terms of protection and rider security. These accessories come in handy no matter where a ride might occur – in the back woods, through a swamp or even on a job site. While ATVs give you the opportunity to explore remote locations, you don’t want your vehicle to break down miles away from civilization. Always be sure to bring some extra fuel and your check XD50 oil before embarking on a long trip.
Since their introduction in the early 1900s, outboard motors have revolutionized the way in which we think about boating. Prior to that, boaters and fishermen were largely dependent on the direction of wind or – for those who felt like using oars – brute force. Outboards have taken the focus of our attentions of locomotion, allowing us to think about catching fish or just enjoy the scenery.
Marine motors work in a deceptively simple way. Much like car engines, they generate power by burning gasoline and oxygen inside a cylinder. In the case of a boat, only one cylinder is generally used. The end result is that the engine powers a propeller submerged below the water’s surface and behind the boat. Two cycle outboard oil is applied to keep the motor properly lubricated and running smoothly.
So, it all starts in the cylinder where gasoline mixes with air, burns and creates power to move the piston back and forth. The piston rod connects to a crankshaft, which turns and causes the main driveshaft to turn as well. This long driveshaft is attached to a gearbox that converts the spinning motion into kinetic energy to move the propeller. Finally, the propeller pushes the boat through the water.
Today we conclude our week-long look at snowmobiles. It all began Monday with an exploration of a typical sled’s drive system. From there, we compared and contrasted snowmobile tracks with those of a tank. Yesterday we posted some brief thoughts on the environmental impact of snowmobiling and the importance of replenishing two cycle oil. Now let’s head even further down the trail to discuss safety tips.
As is the case with any vehicle, you must familiarize yourself with the terrain before deciding to see how fast you can go. You wouldn’t drive 55 mph in a car down a narrow residential street for obvious reasons. Even if you’re riding a snowmobile in a secluded spot, the quality and condition of the snow will make a huge difference. Snowmobiles are set lower to the ground than motorcycles, which might lead you to believe that there’s less risk of injury. Bear in mind, however, that the open sled design creates a very real possibility of falling off.
The most critical pieces of safety equipment for a snowmobiler are the helmet, gloves and boots. Gloves and boots help keep the extremities safe from frostbite, which can nip away at fingers and toes to make precision steering a difficult task. When sledding in a populated area, snowmobilers must be familiar with conventional hand signals – they’re very similar to the ones used by bicyclists. For example, a right turn is signaled by sticking the left arm straight out to the left. A right turn is signaled by pointing a bent left arm upward.
In yesterday’s installment, we took a look at the four main components of a snowmobile’s drive system: the engine, clutch, track and skis. We’ll shift gears slightly today to focus on the track in particular and the steering system in general. The track is designed to maximize traction as the sled moves along the snow. It could be likened to that of a tank, with one major difference: tank tracks are stiff and durable above all other considerations because of the role they play in warfare. Snowmobile tracks, on the other hand, are meant for optimal swiftness and maneuverability.
It goes without saying that snowmobile tracks are more effective on snow than wheels would be, but why is this so? The answer comes down to a question of physics. By spreading out the point of contact with the snow to a larger surface area, tracks create plenty of traction. The treads on the track are rough enough to create friction and grab onto the snow at regular intervals.
Snowmobiles steer in much the same way as other vehicles with handlebars. However, the steering system brings up another major difference between tank tracks and sled tracks. Tanks are often given outfitted with double tracks, which are charged with steering. Snowmobiles come equipped with twin skis at the front of the sled. The width and spacing of the skis make a significant difference when steering. Narrow skis allow a snowmobile to take sharp turns. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at the improvements that have been made to 2 cycle oil formulations.
Buying an outboard motor is a process that should not be taken lightly. As perhaps the most critical purchase you’ll ever make in regards to your boat, it deserves significant preparation and forethought. Take some time to explore the market – both online and at nearby dealerships. Scan the classified ads in your local newspaper for used outboards, but remember that most marine engines manufactured since 1990 should receive TC-W3 certified bulk motor oil.
Our logical tendency as consumers is to seek out the best deal, and to some that might mean the lowest price. Unfortunately, the cheapest goods don’t always equate to the best value. There’s a lot of truth in the old saying that “you get what you pay for.” Still, it’s possible to find a lot of value on the used market. You’ll just need to be discerning when making your selection.
When making your purchase, try to look beyond the price-tag and the immediate costs. All outboards require basic maintenance, and in the case of a high-quality model, that maintenance should be enough to make the engine last for years at a time. Before latching onto a bargain-basement-priced off-brand outboard, ask yourself if it’s really worth it in the long run.
Yesterday we discussed the virtues of purchasing the proper propeller for one’s small boat. I received some correspondence from some longtime readers requesting specifics. The most common questions had to do with the “pitch” of the propeller and what that might mean for engine efficiency. So, thanks to popular demand, let’s take a closer look at that undervalued part that cuts through the water with authority.
Pitch refers to the distance a propeller moves forward with each rotation. This measurement is extremely important for boaters who want to achieve maximum RPM at full throttle with a normal load inside the boat. If a boat is overpropped, or has too much pitch, it will be slow to get on plane and it won’t respond immediately to the throttle. In other words, such a boat will act as a sluggard until a more suitable propeller is attached.
If the boat is underpropped, or doesn’t have enough pitch, it will effortlessly exceed the manufacturer’s recommended RPM, and it will hop along in the water. Find a happy medium where the given pitch of a propeller corresponds to recommended RPM, and you’ll be well on your way to achieving engine efficiency and saving a pretty penny. Try asking a boat dealer if you can water-test a few different props before buying. Don’t let your latest fixation on propellers distract you from mandatory maintenance duties, however. Some fresh 2 cycle oil always does a motor good.
If fuel efficiency and thrift are important to you – and let’s face it, most small boat owners are a bit hard up for cash these days – consider thinking outside the box. We’ve sung the virtues of fuel flow meters, marine GPS units and routine maintenance habits, all of which will help you save on fuel and maximize your fishing or cruising experience. Still, these are far from the only serious steps a money-savvy boat owner can take to cut down on costs. For instance, make sure you choose a two cycle oil that meets all EPA environmental regulations. Then focus your attention on picking a propeller.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no one propeller that’s guaranteed to be right for every situation. Boaters should tailor their prop choice according to their habits and needs. The blade shape, diameter and pitch are all common variables. It’s not unusual for boaters to overload their crafts with passengers, fuel and gear – and the weight of the boat can make all the difference in terms of fuel efficiency.
Make a list of the amount of passengers, gear, coolers and other essentials you might take onboard your boat. Present this list to your boat dealer and ask him or her to find a suitable prop. You can then test your propeller by installing it and testing it out under loaded conditions. Bring the boat up to full throttle and watch to see if it reaches maximum RPM. If not, you may need a different prop.

Although the national economic recession has shown a few signs of slowing down, many consumers are still wary about spending money on luxury items. Yesterday we discussed strategies for finding a solid, reliable boat on the used market. Now we’ll turn our attention to cost-cutting measures you can implement once a fishing trip has begun. All of the following tips will help you save money on two cycle outboard oil.
Try running the boat at different cruising speeds; make note of your fuel consumption at each time. Divide your speed in miles per hour by the gallons per hour of fuel that were consumed to derive fuel efficiency in miles per gallon. Since every fishing boat has what’s known as a “sweet spot” – the speed at which fuel efficiency is maximized – it’s just a matter of experimenting until you find the right speed.
If you have a marine GPS unit, use its fish-finder features to make educated guesses about the location of nearby schools of fish. You might be surprised at how much fuel is wasted just circling around a lake aimlessly in search of a bite. If your boat lacks a GPS unit, talk to some friends who have already fished that particular lake or other body of water. See if they have any tips about where the action might be.